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Some observations:

Old JKT wire (and other inside wire) will always have the ring conductor more corroded (blackened) than the tip wire. This is due to moisture in the air and the fact that the ring wire is negative. In very old apartments in NYC, there is still both plastic- and textile-covered, twisted pair, non-jacketed inside wire. Inspecting the twists as the wire goes along a baseboard, you can see that one conductor's insulation is darker (has attracted more dirt). I will leave the explanation to the chemists in the audience.

You don't have to clean or strip a copper conductor in order to make it connect properly to a screw terminal. The underside of the screw heads have ridges that penetrate the corrosion to make a gas-tight connection.

The insulation that gets displaced in an IDC assists in holding the conductor only minimally, and does not create a barrier to the atmosphere. The terminal has sharp inner edges, and those cut into the copper conductor to make the gas-tight connection.

The BSP for terminating 19- and 20-gauge wires instructs the craftsman to cut back the insulation and to terminate the bare conductor. It also advises not to reuse a 66-type terminal pin after the initial wire is removed, because the pin will have been deformed and will not accept another conductor reliably.

There is reason for every policy, technique and action in telephony. The people at Bell Labs were a lot smarter than we are. It is important to understand and know the history to be a good technician. The fundamentals haven't changed for over a century; they have just evolved and improved.


Arthur P. Bloom
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There is reason for every policy, technique and action in telephony. The people at Bell Labs were a lot smarter than we are. It is important to understand and know the history to be a good technician. The fundamentals haven't changed for over a century; they have just evolved and improved.
So undeniably true!


Jeff Moss

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[Linked Image from i161.photobucket.com]

Here is what I found at work, and though that maybe I'll take advantage of it or something similar to it, to get more jacks out of what I have right now (kitchen only). With this 66B4-3 I can have up to 5 jacks installed. The problem is that I do not really have any place to hide this beast anywhere, except for putting it inside of the box to which the the jack screws on to. If I'll do that I'm thinking dual gang box will be a better option room wise, also will have to use some 66 BLOCK SPECIAL SERVICE MARKER to insulate the pins, just in case.

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Edit: I don't like how that quad sits in that block,what other alternatives that can be used to split it into home runs to about 3 or 4 locations ? Something that'll look good and would not qualify for the "pictures of ugly work" post

All the information provided is learned well, I guess I just being a bit picky, but I want it to be sure that I weight all cons and pros of all possible solutions . As I mentioned before, I am more of a cg than a phone tech . And it is clearly that phone industry is a bit more complex when it comes to wiring.

Wow, typing this on a touchscreen phone is difficult.

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I sent you a PM, my offer still stands.


Jeff Moss

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click

I suggest that you take some time and refer to the techniques and methods that make up the Residential Wiring Standards. The info is available online, and one example is given above.

In your case, you need to understand that all wiring, whether it's voice, data, video, etc, must be installed in a star topology (each wire is run home to a central location.)

We do not recommend that you use the mini 66 block and we definitely do not recommend that you hide it in some box. We also have the same opinion about leaving coaxial cable splitters in odd places.

There are reasons we do things the way we do them in this industry. One important reason that wires are installed as home runs is to ensure easy trouble-shooting. If the splice (66 block or otherwise) is in the wall, then you are creating unnecessary work for the poor schmuck who has to follow you to repair things.

What if your ship comes in, and you decide to add a third phone line in just one room served by the 66 block? Now you're screwed, because you don't have enough pairs to get from the source to the phone.


Arthur P. Bloom
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Your making this so much harder than it needs to be. Phone cabling used to be daisy chained which is what you've got. You already said you weren't going to replace the cabling so daisy chained it stays. That's ok as it will still work just fine. Put a screw terminal faceplate on, connect both sets of wires to the terminals and this includes the wires going to the other bedroom, and call it a day. If you decide to run more cabling then that's a whole other subject.

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I would think if you "are searching for something better" telephone work is not for you.

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A Suttle 66B1-6 is a slightly larger version of the mini punchdown block in your picture. It will allow you to terminate 6 POTS lines and has the capacity to connect (5) 4-pair cables and some 2-pair.

If you're using No-KSU type sets, upgrading to a small true business telephone system might be worthwhile.


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Jim, I don't think I ever said that I was looking to get into the telephone work.

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