atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems Antique Telephones Connecting 1-BA (WE) Answering Set??

Strapping=jumpers, sorry. So if you put dial tone on T&R you don't get dial tone out on T1&R1? If that's the case it sounds like you might need some sort of switch hook control. This is just one big guessing game unless someone can come up with a wiring diagram. How about a wiring diagram for a Code-a-Phone? That might be close enough to at least get an idea.

Bill, how about this: I'm pretty sure that K1 and G1 are A leads, so there should be no need for connections there in this application. Perhaps our issue is within the connected 500 set. Do you agree?

I don't think that terminal "G" in the answering set is really a ground terminal. I think A-G are just there for options. The likely connections should be incoming on T/R and outgoing on T1/R1. That would follow normal logic by today's standards anyway. If there truly is a ground terminal, I'd think that it is G1 myself.

DHarrell: How about looking inside the phone. Move the black lead from the ringer coil over from terminal G to terminal L1 along with the other leads that are on L1. The red lead from the ringer coil should be connected to terminal L2 with all existing leads.

They may have been disconnected to avoid the "phone police" back in the day.

Also, be sure to put back any option straps that you removed from terminals A-G in the answering set that you mentioned in your first post. Tightening screws didn't harm anything.

This is one of those I wish were in front of me.

I'll try changing the wires inside the phone itself, but how should I leave the connections at the terminal panel? Jumpered? Non-jumpered? I'll try both, to see what happens.

Ed- I didn't remove any of the option straps that were there, and I only mentioned the loose screws as a clue as to which ones were originally loosened back in the day. And I also agree that the lettering of A-G seems too convenient to have G as a green lead now, but who knows? I wish the schematic in the cover helped, but it is only a map of the components, not how they are connected.

I have tried so many things, that I have forgotten what happened when I connected T/R to T1/R1. I know I did it, and wasn't happy with it, but I'll go try that again too, just to eliminate another option.

Again, and as always, thank you guys!

I have taken extensive pictures of my progress along the way. Is there anything you would like to see that I maybe took a shot of already?

I was talking more hands on, with volt ohm meter and butt set to see what was on what. If Ed is correct on K1 G1 (and he usually is) than that would be the switch hook control.

Not connecting T/R to T1/R1. Incoming dial tone on T/R phone on T1/R1

Like Ed said.
If the line is interrupted with the unit turned on, it probably is stuck in some on line process. With the phone connected to T1 and R1, and the phone line connected to T-G and R, and the unit turned off/unplugged, do you get the phone line, yes or no? If yes, when you plug the unit into AC with the unit turned off, do you still get the phone line, yes or no? If yes, when you turn the unit on, do you lose the phone line, yes or no.
NOW for the BIG question, when you hook up the unit to the phone line, do ANY of the tests seem to completely kill the phone line? For this test, use a phone connected to the same jack as the unit.
And like ED, I wish I had it in front of me, this one is NOT going to be fun to troubleshoot over the internet. Any chance you could tell us what the knobs are labeled and what the labels are on multi-position switches are? John C.

Ok, I decided to tackle one sub-problem at a time, and just work on the phone. I'll try the suggestions you gave John, after I solve this one:
I tried connecting the phone wires directly to the phone, eliminating the answering machine altogether. Red to red, green to green. I also tried green and yellow together later.


When I did this, everything works except for the ringer. I fiddled around a bit after recording the current setup:



Here is a better angle:


I connected the line-in like this:
Yellow on "3" with the black ringer wire
Green still on "f"
Black still on "4"
Red on "L2"

And the ringer like this:
Black on "3" with yellow
Red moved to "L2" with line-in red.

Results: When I connect the phone line, the clacker moves hard against the bell that is adjustable (right side if looking at the bells), and stays there. Upon an incoming call, it rings weakly a few times and stops, and the ringing in the earpiece of the phone I am using stops too. It is as if I get one ring, and then nothing.

So, I put it all back.

I then found a schematic for this phone, and hooked up everything as shown again. The only enlightenment I got was the option of moving the green wire from "F" to "RR", so I tried that. I got nothing.

Question 1:
How many volts/amps is the ringer electromagnet so I can hook it up directly to something to see if that is the problem? I don't want to fry it.

Question 2:
Should I do that?

Question 3:
What am I missing here??

1 you will fry it because it's 20hz

2 no

3 on older phone at the connecting block, not in the phones, put the yellow and green together, this should resolve your ringing problem. Assuming all the network wiring is where it was originally. If you do this in the phone, move the bell lead to the incoming green lead.