Now I know Ed will probably yell at me...
But anyway, I did some re-wiring of my shop when I was home last, and decided to terminate some runs of 22 gauge 1 pair shielded audio cable (stranded) on a 66 block. Anyway, I ran into an issue with terminating the drain wire (shield). At least one of the strands would come out of the connecting clip, thus not making a good connection. What I ended up doing was punching down a small piece of cross connect or audio wire to the block and then connecting it to the drain wire with a beanie. It works, but I know it isn't the best way. So does anyone have a suggestion of what I can do?
Thanks,
Jeff

Ever try and wire wrap on the 66 pins with some needles and possibly solder it in place?

Anytime we have to terminate stranded wire on a 66 block we use scotchlocks and a short piece of solid wire. You'll never get a good connection punching stranded.

We run into this when connecting music on hold. We install a biscuit jack with the audio and xconnect wire under the screw terminals. Punch down the xconn wire to the 66 block. The modular jack becomes a test point to check the audio.

Switch to 110 for stranded wire

"Tin" the stranded wire so it is solid.

Either what CMDL or KLD idea will work low voltage audio is a lot fussier with connections the telephones, I solder the wire to the block if I need to terminate it that way

I would just punch the wire back down and slide a bridge clip over the connection, that should hold it just fine. :idea:

I had a long arguement several years ago on another forum with a guy who builds recording studios over using 66 blocks for stranded wire. This guy uses them to terminate audio snakes (mic lines from the studio with phantom power!) and swears up and down that he has never had a problem just cutting the conductors down. I don't believe it. The clips are not made for stranded wire.

-Hal

That would never work in todays studios :bang: miss matched metals in the terminal block will cause noise, a loose connection will cause static and the unshielded/unbalanced contacts will pickup noise/hum :scratch:

When I first hooked up my T1 to my ESI, I punched #24 stranded wire into the 66 pins corresponding to the T1 inputs. It worked fine the first time. A few months later, I was switching T1's around. Lo and behold this time after punching down a few times, I couldn't get a sync. Somehow, I realized that I probably wasn't making good contact. I stripped off a little bit and slid the wire in the slot as much as possible then wrapped it around the terminal a little, and shoved a bridge clip over it. After the same routine for the other 3, I immediately got sync, and was back up and running.

I'll have to pick up some scotchloks or something so I can re-wire it with a more preffered method.

That would never work in todays studios...

Well, it wasn't that long ago and a balanced mic line is still a balanced mic line. This guy I think said he did the QVC studios also and used 66 blocks for the mic lines.

-Hal

Thats maybe why the audio is so poor when you listen to QVC

I agree with KLD tin the ends. By the way when I use music on hold cords, I get them from radio shack . Come in 6 foot lengths in RCA or 1.8mm with one end already pre-tinned. Makes for a perfect punch on 66-110 blocks.

Also not to call out or critique Robcalltroll but you stated "When I first hooked up my T1 to my ESI, I punched #24 stranded wire into the 66 pins corresponding to the T1 inputs". And closed out with "I'll have to pick up some scotchloks or something so I can re-wire it with a more preffered method". I'm guessing you cut a patchcord and punched one end to a block. None of the above mentioned is a preffered method. Always try to keep everything jacked so you can "plug and pray". Use solid wire off the block to a jack then plug up. The original post was about audio cables so when I read your post I had a vision. Telco tech comes out for a trouble ticket on your T-1 and finds that mess hooked to the smart jack! I'm not picking on you but I've been there brother and I got a t-shirt!

Yes Rob, the right way would be to take a piece of CAT3 cable and press a plug on the end of it then punch the other end down.

I always cringe when I find an installation full of line cords used to interconnect the KSU with the CO's or extensions.

-Hal

My personal preference is to run a piece of JK, jumper wire or anything solid from the 66 block to a 42A block and make the transition to the audio cable using the screw terminals.

I have seen a MOH cable, I assume factory-made that had a 6/C mod plug on one end. I guess they wanted it to just plug into a jack connected to the MOH input of the KSU. I would imagine that would be a bad idea since if plugged into a live jack it would blow the MOH device. Not a bad concept, but it obviously didn't last for that reason. It could have been field-terminated though.

I am with you Hal on your second item.

Yeah hal that reminds me of one time I sent a new guy out to install a Partner system. Actually I was wanting to test his skill level since this was his first install working for our company. This guy talked like he might at least know the basics. Even said "Man ,I've installed a ton of Partners. Sent him out on the job and about 7 hours later he calls and says franticly "Bring me a new cabinet, processor and 308 exp card cause I've got static like hell! I thought to myself " Lets go check this dude out somethings not right"! Got over there and seen he ruined 15 patch cords needless to say! Well he learned his lesson at my expence. Personally if I see stranded wire on a 66 block or even 110 bix krone... I don't like it! But I do wonder why scotchloks work so dog gone good on just about any type wire under the same gauge ratings? Their an IDC type connection too!

IDC connections can work on stranded wire just fine, if designed for that purpose.

Practically all ribbon cable is stranded, and practically all of it is terminated with IDC connectors.

I think the big problem with 66 blocks and stranded is that the 66 block has a large piece of metal that starts out completely shut and tends to cut clear thru most of the fine strands wheras 110 blocks and ribbon connectors have a slight gap and less "spring" so they do less damage.

The clip on a 66 block is supposed to crush the insulation thereby exposing the conductor. Because the conductor is solid this can easily happen. The solid conductor is then wedged down in the slot and held there by spring tension.

If you try to use a stranded insulated conductor the insulation displacement (crushing) will be unreliable because the stranded conductor is soft and will tend to deform under the insulation. The soft bundle of strands will also deform when forced down in the slot and because the slot is a "V" shape (narrower at the bottom) only those strands at the bottom will be held tightly, the rest won't make proper contact.

-Hal

i agree use scotchlocks then run solid jumper even braided wire doesnt work on the best connecting blocks(BIX)

You did say that with a smile, didn't you?