Hello All-

I'm requesting advice regarding the proper way to connect to the KSU. About me, I'm definitely a "newby" and have a totally separate career, although telephony has always been my first love. As I stated in my previous post, I truly want to learn the correct, proven ways and thus have been a student of the Bell practices. Correct installation and terminology are important to me. I've learned much from this forum; I thank you for that.

Here is what I would like to do, so I'm asking you pros the best and correct way to complete the task.

I'm going to install a Partner system into a friends office. Right now, the CO pairs and station pairs are terminated onto separate 66 blocks. The KSU has 8P8C ports for both the CO and stations.

If you would be so kind, what would be the best way to connect? My thought is to get 2-pair solid, crimp a 8P8C modular plug on one end and then punch the other end onto the 66 block (the CO ports need just one pair, so I would wrap the extra pair back at the 66 block). Of course, another option would be to remove the 66 blocks, replace them with patch panels, and then patch between the panels and the KSU.

I would prefer to use the 66 blocks because that is the Bell standard, I believe, and I see no benefit to not using 66 blocks.

So, how would you pros handle this? Any help is VERY much appreciated. Thank you!

Whoops...the CO ports are 6P4C.

These will be my thoughts. I'm a former CO technician for an IXC/CLEC so my expertise is on the other end of the line.

Barring any unusual circumstances, I would have no problems running individual cables for each CO line and station port, terminate these cables onto another set of 66 blocks and then crosswire over to the new 66 blocks. You can purchase pre-made harnesses to connect up Partner modules, but, my preference is to run individual cables. 2-pair can be used for COs and stations. Even though Partner phones require only 2 pairs for full functionality, I would run 4-pair and terminate with an 8P8C. Again, my personal preference.

If you click on the link to my website, you'll find some pictures that show how I cabled the Merlin Magix that I donated to my Church.

But...as they say...YMMV.

Another option is to terminate the cables (out to the desk top) on a patch panel, that way if someone wants to move the their phone to a different location all that is needed is to "Plug & Play".

Relocating a keyset can be done fast and easy!

In the Bell days it was still 1A2 and comkey. They would have wired the ksu to its own block(s) and used crossconnect wire between the KSU block(s) and station blocks, and ksu block(s) and CO block. In other words, what Dex said. There are many ways to connect a Partner, some better than others. Just as long as it isn't a mess of biscuit jacks and silver satin cords, you'll probably be in good shape. If you have way too much time on your hands you could do what I did. I custom made my own "octopus" cables out of 25 pair and a lot of heat shrink. Each leg is the right length so there isn't a bunch of ugly slack wadded up at the KSU. This is a common problem with off the shelf octopus cables. The other end of the 25 pair is cut down on a 66 block and cross connected as mentioned above. I was kind of time consuming, but it's also in my house, so appearance matters to me. I also have a 1A2 system, wired much the same way. The difference there is the KSU has an internal 66 block so it's much easier to make a neat install. I do like the idea of a patch panel on the station side, just be sure to use some kind of cable management or all those patch cords can look hideous in a hurry. Especially if you have a fair number of stations. If it's a small office, it wouldn't be too bad. Some simple velcro ties on the cables would have things tidy. Best of luck, and Welcome!

As to wrapping unused pairs - no. All pairs get punched down on the block. Leaving pairs unterminated is something a hacker does. You might not need them today, but who knows about next week.

Well, after installing Partners for the last 20 or so years that's the way to do it. I've even had those octopus cables custom made and that was before "one company" even got that idea. You never want to use 8P8C plugs on the end if 4 pair cables as Dexman suggests. What do you do with the unused pairs? Nor do you want to use a patch panel unless you want it to look like an IT guy did it.

For the CO lines I even have 4 and 6 pair octopus cables. But I have to admit that I got that idea from AT&T who had them when they were installing Partners.

So, from the KSU you come off with your station 25 pairs and your CO 4 or 6 pairs. Stations get punched down on split (50 pair)66 blocks. Label extensions 10-21 down the left and 22-33 down the right side if you have another cable for the first block (the v/s pairs are unused). If you have more than one station 25 pair, wrap some w/b wire around the first one just below the shrink where it splits. Wrap some o/w the same way around the second cable. Do the same with multiple CO cables. Each breakout on all octopus cables is numbered 1-12 for stations and 1-4 or 1-6 for the COs. This makes it easy when you have to change or add a module. Just pull the plugs out and you just go right down the line starting with the first cable and plug them in. No need to know the extension or CO.

The CO cables get punched down on the left side of a another 66 block, this one is a 25 pair (not split) labeled T1, R1, etc.

The backboard should be arranged starting from the left- KSU, station blocks, CO block, premises wiring blocks. Premises wiring should be 4 pair with all 4 pairs punched down on 66 split blocks. They get labeled with the jack numbers. I try to start out with the jack number matching the extension plugged into it but they never stay that way because extensions get moved. So always make sure that the numbering on your blocks matches the jack number on the other end NOT the extension.

-Hal

Avaya / AT&T always used 4 wire cords that they called "cordage" and i have found many of their installations to be neat and clean.

AT&T>Lucent>Avaya just pressed 6P4C plugs on the ends of the premises wiring and wrapped the spares back. I have run across their installs using 4 conductor JK wire but never silver satin line cordage. What would you do at the jack end? Run it right to the phone?

The 8P4C jacks on the Partner allowed plug and play upgrades from the Merlin. But just because with a Merlin upgrade you have to connect directly to the KSU doesn't mean that you should do it that way with a new Partner install.


That's because nobody got to it yet. But then again, these days any installation, no matter how you do it and how neat you make it will likely turn to s*** with what's out there today.

-Hal

Those type of cords were used here in this install I did years ago. They are factory made cords. The jacket was extra thick, making it a tight fit in a loaded module. The other end was cut down on a 66 block.

That is exactly what i was describing.

That is how I wired my two Partner ACS systems.

I custom made the cables using Systimax 4 pair cables and EZ Crimp 8P8C plugs. The one difference is that, by using solid conductors, the cables slightly stick out straight (except the bottom few station ports) and then bend down at a rough 90 degree angle. No problems installing or removing the carrier's cover.

Not a single cable failure using EZ crimp connectors.

That Systimax cable CAT5e or CAT6? I am surprised you were able to get the cover on. Cables used with these systems were always CAT3 solid conductor.

-Hal

CAT3 solid terminated with 8P8C EZ Crimp plugs. Works great with the Partner and Magix systems.

You put the carrier cover on?!!! I think in the 16 years ive been doing this I've seen 1 cover actually on a partner system and 1 that was practically melted to the top of the cards on another but the system was still plugging away

Yup...No issues with overheating. One system is on hot standby at my Church. The unit is underneath a stairway. I have two 4" computer cooling fans suspended over the carrier to pull cooler air up and dispel the heat from the module power supplies. No problems. The system is tested monthly.

Either way, it looks like this topic has gone up a side street. Let's move it back onto the main highway.

This was about a partner install all along. That being said, we haven't heard back from the OP since his/her initial post. Looks like we weren't the only ones to take an off ramp.

No, I'm still here. I just have a little 8 year old who does a good job of keeping me off the computer!I really want to thank all of you for the input!

I like the idea of the octopus cables and have, in fact, seen those installed.

Regardless, all cabling from the KSU to the 66 blocks would secure to the backboard and come in from the BOTTOM of the 66 blocks, correct? Cross-connects are always run over the blocks, yes?

In fact, isn't that the basic cabling principle? Specifically, all "permanent" wiring such as CO and station wiring are secured to the backboard and enter from the bottom, while all wiring that may be moved, such as cross-connects, are routed over the top of the 66 blocks and across mushrooms (or D-rings), but NOT secured to the backboard?

Also, Hal, you mentioned that you would terminate the CO pairs on a standard 66 block (not a split block). Why is that that? I had thought one would terminate on a split block and then use bridging clips for a nice test point. Am I missing something?

Thanks also for the pictures and links to pictures. Those installs look nice!

Thanks all for the great and helpful comments!

Yes for bringing cables up from the bottom and cross-connecting at the top.

Using colored backboards specifically designed to mount 66/25 and 66/50 can help keep things lined up. Ditto for "mushrooms" and D rings.

Thanks dexman. That is a clean church install. Thanks for the pics!

Thank you for checking out the pictures and your kind words!