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The lines enter the system in the main gray cabinet. When you remove the cover and unlock the swing gate (quarter-turn screw on the left side of the frame), you will see two 66 blocks in the base of the unit. The lines enter on the lower-left side of the right-hand block. These terminations will be labeled "T" and "R" times six. The first "T/R" pair signifies line one, and so on down to line six.

The cable that feeds into these terminals are your incoming lines from the outside world, which would be fed into the Partner system as CO lines.


Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Very good Ed. Thank you so much for your detailed and concise responses.

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There are quite a few 1A2 folks here who can assist you through this transition. It is not as complicated as it seems. Partner only needs two dedicated pairs per station and you have plenty to work with, so you are in good shape. I assure you that the existing wiring that you have is better than any new wiring that could be provided. Quality standards are much lower today than back then.

It's midnight here, so we'll have to discuss this tomorrow or at a later date. You've come to the right place for support on this project.


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Hey Ed, how did you know GTE installed this? Just wondering...


Jeff Moss

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Waldron -

You've got a 25 pair cable going back from that metal "can" to the KSU. It's looped to both blocks in the terminal (to allow multiple terminations). Like the guys said - Strip all the station cables off of the blocks and then reterminate the first two pairs sequentially down one of the blocks.

You don't have 10 cables going into that terminal. Maybe seven at the most, so you'll use 14 pairs tops. Where do you plan on placing the Partner? By the KSU? By the Terminal? Someplace else? If the partner is going by the old KSU, identify the feed cable, remove it and reterm it. The first 14 pair will be your seven stations.

As far as how to spare the remaining 23 pair in the station cables, fold them neatly into sections about 4" shorter then the height of the can. Tape the ends so they're in nice neat bundles, label them and hang them over the hook in the center of the can.

While I was always a firm believer in never cutting off an amphenol, and while using 153 adapters would certainly be the "professional" way to do the job, I don't think you'll ever need amphenols again. So don't feel bad about cutting off the connectors and putting blocks on.

Stop in and ask whatever you need. We're all here to help.

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You guys have been an invaluable resource! Thanks so much for all the great advice. The system is going in weekend after next, so I'll post some job-in-progress and final pics when I have them. I can't think of any questions that weren't answered here, but will post back if there are any late breaking issues.

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Quote
While I was always a firm believer in never cutting off an amphenol, and while using 153 adapters would certainly be the "professional" way to do the job,
I have to disagree with you Sam , to me a flush mount jack on the wall is a cleaner , "more professional "look than a 25 pair cable coming out of the wall with adapter on the end (or even tucked in the wall} with a line cord going through a plate and a hole .


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to me a flush mount jack on the wall is a cleaner , "more professional "look than a 25 pair cable coming out of the wall with adapter on the end (or even tucked in the wall} with a line cord going through a plate and a hole.

I agree in that instance and it's normally what I do. But what about when the cables are not coming out of the wall? Many times they are run along the baseboard, maybe up through a hole in the floor. The cable is exposed and a surface jack is not going to hide the other 23 pairs. I think in this instance just using adapters and what's there originally looks better.

how did you know GTE installed this? Just wondering...

By the way the color markings are done on the wires. Look closely at the w/bl's and w/or's and tell me what the difference is from the 25 pr that we normally use. I wouldn't go so far as to say that when you see that cable it was always done by GTE because I still have some here. But it did come from GTE many years ago.

-Hal


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Hal & Skip -

Sorry if I wasn't clear about it. When I said "Professional" I meant 1A2 professional - i.e. if you were ever going to use the wiring for another similar system. Obviously the cleanest looking job is the most professional. Having 23 pairs taped up on a wall is going to look like hell as is a mated pair of amphenlols hanging out of a hole in the wall.

I would definitely use a flush mount wall jack to cover a hole in a wall and on an exposed wall I would mate a 153 adapter to the existing amphenol and cover it with a SE-700 housing - if they're still available (I think that's the right number).

It's good that you guys are paying attention and keeping me honest. Too often I know what I want to say - I just don't fully explain it.

Sam


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Sam:

The SE700A's are still available, in fact I just got 45 of them in recently.


Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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