atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring New jack needed, old wiring used

I have already mentioned before that I have at home a phone jack that will be utilized soon for the DSL. I had plans for replacing the jack anyway once I get around to do some remodeling of the condo, but the recent order of the DSL line might speed up the process of replacing the jack. I don't have the home phone, and have used TWC for internet services, but due to price I decided to switch over to DSL. The order goes through and on the day when everything supposed to work, I get nothing but a dead modem, tech support did some testing and they were able to communicate with the device to some extent, but not enough to get the stable signal. The very same modem worked at from the same jack for quite a while for the previous owner and when I had a dsl for a few months before getting a great pricing from TWC.
So the modem is in working order that was nicely tucked away in on a shelf in a closet in its original box and all that good stuff.
I have previously taken a jack off to trace a wire that was going to the bedroom and where it damaged.
Today I took the jack out and upon closer inspection I think I see a few things that I do not like about the jack. the jack is 630a and as you can see from the pictures the original wiring is thicker and probably should be replaced . It is punched down into jack not so well either. Anyway, in order to replace the wiring I would have to go through ATT, but don't want to cover the bill since the condo is in an aparment style building, and thinking that Condo Association should pick up the bill for it.
If the replacement of the old wiring is not possible what would be the best choice of terminating reliably into something of a keystone nature jack?

I tried to re-terminate the old wiring into original 630a by using 110 blade, but it is clearly too thick for it and tends not to stay in there too well. So I am looking into something that'll work.

If your just looking for a replacement jack then use a terminal type. Something like this that you can get most anywhere.

https://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_40539-PM.htm?sid=E745787856C0EB8233A5406C8B057D7C

I'd like to stick with something of a punch down type, as I'm trying to shift myself away form screw terminals.

another alternative would be to beanie some current wire to the old wire.

use a UY connector.
https://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=5685

make sure you strip enough of the sheath away to know you are connecting to good copper. I went to a job once where I had to strip away three feet until I hit shiny copper!

I only would like to use the punch down jack, and as far as stripping 3 ft of jacket to get to shiny copper, I only have 8 in to work with.

I'm sure you won't have to strip much off. that was only an example that was coax that had been exposed to the elements. besides... you won't need much if you are extending the old line with new line. You are attaching the new line to it so you can use the 110 blade to try to attach it to the old punch down or, if you are unable to use the old one, a new one that you buy. All you really need is for the original line to be two inches long to tie a much longer line to it.

if you have little original line and you mess up with the beanie don't cut the beanie off but rather break the connector. I was at a job and went through like five beanies because of how little line I had to work with.

You must be related to my wife. She asks my advice as to what she should do, I tell her the answer, and she says she doesn't want to do it that way.

I never use the punch down type of 630 jack. They are completely unreliable. Apparently the other experts here agree with me. Screw terminals are the best for this application. The constant vibrations from hanging up the phone will eventually cause the conductors to come loose from the slots. It might take a few months, or a lifetime, to fail, but I don't use them for my customers, period.

The wire you have pictured is 20 gauge JKT. You can also do what another person suggested and splice short (6 inch) 24 gauge pigtails to the JKT conductors, and then terminate them on the push-on terminals. Use filled Scotchloks or B-connectors for the splices and push the excess wire into the wall cavity.

You will never need to strip anything back, to find "good copper." Copper just gets a very thin coating of oxide, which can be scraped off with a knife blade. In actuality, a push-on termination (correctly called an IDC --insulation displacement connection) is not bothered by oxidized copper, since by its nature, it is designed to cut through the outer surface of the copper conductor.