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Joined: Nov 2008
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Uh, there are more then 1 wire connected to pins 3 and 18. which ones do I disconnect? They are cross connected to the other slots.

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Well, I know for sure I messed up, since all I get now on line 1 is noise. No DT.

The wires that were connected to the pins previously were connected via what looks like little springs that wrapped around the pins. I couldn't get fancy like that and just wrapped the earphone wires as best I could around the pins in question.

It wasn't easy, there's not much room to move back there. I also accidentally disconnected the jumper that was connecting one of the pins on slot 1 with the same pin on slot 2. Tried to do a shoddy jumper job to repair that, but I'm quite sure I messed up.

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How does the enclosure connect to the KSU?


Jeff Moss

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Jeff,

From what I understand, the back of the enclosure has 18 pins per slot. So I think you would just have to run jumpers from the pins on the enclosure, to the respective slot pins on the KSU.

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Cat 6, spin-wrap the wiring on the back of the 359 and punch it on the KSU.

Spin wrap tool does just that...it allows you to make a concise wrap around the stud pin on the back of the adapter. If memory serves me correctly seven wraps with this tool equals a standard solder connection.


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Ken,

What's the 359? The enclosure? Thanks for the input btw! smile

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The 359 is an accessory 400-card TYPE panel with 2 slots. Note the TYPE, that means it will slot all sorts of 4XX cards, like the 401, 403, and a bunch of other special purpose cards. It's all in the wiring. Good luck finding one. frown By the way, what Ken calls a spin-wrap tool is also called a wire-wrap tool. Radio shack used to sell them, with their shift to mainly consumer type stock, they probably don't any more. Maybe Sandman has them in stock. Used to be a very common type of connection method. I saw the inside of a Cray computer once that was built in a circle. If you looked down inside from the top, it looked like an electrician's nightmare, because the wires were as short as possible. That meant zillions of wire wrap jumpers going ACROSS the 'tube', top to bottom. (Get it right the first time, because won't get a 2nd chance!) You need to practice a little before you do it for keeps. And stranded wire is a no-no. So solder or scotchlok some 24 gauge wire onto the stranded headset cord. And you may have to use smaller wire, depends on the tool you get. John C.


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Thanks for that LH! I went and bought a 22-24AWG wire-wrap tool today. It was freaking expensive!!!

I think you do get a second chance, because the tool is also a wire-wrap removal tool as well, but I'll practice before I start for real. I remove dthe wire wrap on pins 3/18 yesterday using a pair of fine long-nosed pliers, so it's not that hard.

The cord coming off my headset are tip and ring configuration! Red/Green. From what I understand, tip comes from the "tip" of the plug, and ring from the...ring! hA!

Really flimsy wire though. Can't even call it a wire. Looks more like fabric, or thread. Don't know how I could attach that to anything, or anything to it.

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Cat -

I think I read you also don't have a punch down tool. You are absolutely going to need one, not sure how you're getting reliable connections to your 66 block without one. When I started, I used a small flathead screwdriver to "push" the wire in, but the connection wasn't at all reliable and you're also left with excess lead hanging out.

Just my 2 cents, but I think connecting the enclosure is going to be enough of an adventure all on it's own... you for sure don't want to be wondering if your punchdowns are reliable or not.

Or maybe you already bought the tool and I didn't see it.

In which case you can ignore this post...

smile

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"Really flimsy wire though. Can't even call it a wire. Looks more like fabric, or thread. Don't know how I could attach that to anything, or anything to it."

Solder a piece of regular wire on to it. Or use a solderless crimp conector.

Sam


"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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