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#487468 08/10/10 05:37 PM
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A club I belong to has one of these systems that isn't working. Does anyone know where we can get a manual for it? Or things to check to find what's wrong? All the voltages from the power supply are good.

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#487469 08/11/10 02:28 AM
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This answer from Ed (EV607797) Tone Commander's phone number 800-524-0024. You might try searching Tone Commander in this category.

These things are pretty basic, if you're sure the power's good there's not much more to it. The wiring diagram is usually on the unit itself.


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#487470 08/11/10 08:51 AM
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As I rcall the RT 1900 was like the Melco orTeltone units. I would check the 66 block where the cables are terminated. After beaucoup years sometimes the clips loosen up. All you need to do is give them a little squeeze with a long nose and you're back in business.

You didn't say what is wrong with the unit. Is it completely dead? No sidetone? No signalling? On all stations or just some?

If the main unit is bad some of the folks on the board may have replacements for sale. Ask away.

Sam


"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
#487471 11/07/10 11:50 AM
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Trainman129 r u still looking for the RT 1900 manual? I have pages 1-8 only missing page 9 the back page.

I do have a question for any one else concerning the RT 1900 setup.

I have a setup with the KSU Keysystem unit. and the Tone Commander RT1900 I have followed the instruction as best as I can and I have the folllowing pin outs
pair 1 24v dc (tip, Ring)
pair 23 110v ac (ring voltage)
pair 24 24v DC filtered
pair 25 24v dc unfiltered

I have connected 3 phones
pair 8, 9 and 10 which represent dial numbers 3, 4 & 5 according to the RT1900 layout.
I half tapped pair 1 to each pair 8, 9 , & 10 for talk voltage. and I can go off hook on each phone and talk no problem, as an intercom it works. I can dial 3, 4, or 5, and hear the tone commander click inside and a faint buzz in the ear peice but no ring at the other line. I have used a volt meter on all 25 pair to see if when I dial on pair will generate ring voltage but I cant find one. I did notice that the 24v dc drops to around 8v when I go off hook on that pair, and at pair one of course. (main source of 24 v)

I can scan the booklet but it will end up being 8 photo's I could send some one for any additional help but I would love to make the phones actually ring.

Thanks.

Don


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#487472 11/07/10 12:44 PM
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I am not familiar with the RT 1900. Does the installation manual (we call is a "practice" in the phone biz) say that it provides superimposed ringing? Or does it say that ringing is over a separate pair, like most key system intercom units?

Without seeing the entire installation practice, can you tell us what pairs in the 25-pair output cable the signaling codes are assigned to, assuming the requirement is for a separate signaling pair?

If the unit does not provide superimposed ringing, did you install a separate pair to each location, and did you use a 4-wire cord, with a separate cord pair for the ringer? Did you disconnect the ringer leads inside each set, and connect them to the second cord pair?

From your description, it sounds like you have all the T & R in parallel. If that is correct, then the system must send out the signal on a separate pair.

Generally, key system intercoms do not use generator (90 Vac @ 20 or 30 Hz) and the internal ringer of a tel set, but rather, use a small (10Vac) buzzer inside the set, wired to a spare pair.

Does the practice specifically say to use generator?


Arthur P. Bloom
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#487473 11/07/10 01:14 PM
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RT 1900 on Ebay

OK, I found an RT 1900 for sale, and the photo clearly shows the label, which has the wiring instructions printed on it.

As I suspected, the RT 1900 is almost identical to the Melco and Teltone Rotary and Touchtone 19 code intercom units. This type of dial selective intercom is described as "common talk, selective ring."

If you refer to the label, it shows that all the T & R should be multipled at a separate 66 block. It also shows that the signaling supply is not necessarily 110 Vac. It shows, as most intercom units do, that you can use any AC or DC supply, and the usual one is 10 Vac.

It also shows that the unit does NOT supply superimposed ringing, and therefore, it requires a separate pair for the 10 Vac buzzer.

If you have run a parallel cross-connection (you used the term "half-tapped", which is not really the correct term) from the first pair (Talk T & R) to any other pair on the output cable, then you have made a mistake. Only the T & R of the tel sets goes to pair number 1, and pair number 1 does not have any other function.

The signal outputs are as follows: Code 0 = White/Brown pair. Then all the other 18 codes, in order, have outputs continuing through the Violet-Orange pair for code 29. These are the pairs where you connect the individual buzzer leads.

If you wish to use generator and line ringers, you can do that, but you will need to provide a separate pair for each ringer.


Arthur P. Bloom
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#487474 11/07/10 03:35 PM
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Arthur is exactly correct. If the unit is set up for signalling with ring generator then you can use standard sets. Intercom tip & ring (usually line 5 on a 2564/2565 set - the Black/green pair) would be connected to pair 1 on the RT. The Yellow/Slate pair from each phone would then go to pair 8 for #3, pair 9 for #4, etc.

Select the intercom and dill the desired digit - the phone should ring. If it's not test to see that ringing voltage appears on the proper signalling pair when dialed.

Sam


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#487475 11/07/10 03:46 PM
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You are correct in that the unit it self has no power, I have an old itt unit that provides the power, from 110 to 24v and I have pushed the 110v into the RT via pair 23, v/g and the 24 pair has 24v dc as does the 25 pair all from a seperate power unit.

the Phones are on pair 8 9 and 10 with the instructions saying I can use 3 4 or 5 as an intercom to dial the other phones. I can lift the phone tied to pair 8 and dial 4, for the phone on pair 9 and it will buzz only in the earpeice of the phone that is currently off hook, and the voltage drops from 24v to 8v so I really cant buzz or call the other phone right now, but I can go off hook on both lines and talk using the 24v for talk battery. I am sure there is just some thing else I and supposed to do just aiodign the 110v till I am sure I am not gonna blow some thing up.

I can email you the book I have in 8 nice scanned photos.

thank you for your help and I will check back and let you all know what happens.


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#487476 11/07/10 03:59 PM
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How do you have the phones wired to the RT?

Please be specific.

To test remove ALL the wiring from the sets to the RT. Leave the power wiring on.

Put a butt set across pair 1 and go off hook. You should have side tone. Put a volt meter across pair 8. Dial digit 3 from the butt set and the meter should go from 0 volts to whatever voltage you have wired to pair 23.

Se if that works and get back to us.

Sam


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#487477 11/07/10 10:26 PM
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I am using teh original r66b 25 pair split block with 6 pins across, I have phones punched down on the left side 2 column pair 8,9,10 I have the RT briged to the right side of the block and I am using 3 sets of jumpers to go to each phones on 8 9 and 10 again going to the right side of the block and using jumpers there as well to push power back to each phone.

(light comming on) <-- in my head that is I am actually pushing teh RT voltage from pair one back into teh RT1900 on 8,9, & 10 by doing that and I am not sure I am supposed to now. thank you for the idea I will check it after work and get back.

Thank you again for the suggestions.


Still new and always learning
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