I just purchased a splice kit for 100 pair direct burial cable. This is made by Communications Technology Corp., and the faxed photocopy of the installation instructions leave a lot to be desired. Can anyone direct me to some proper instructions on how to prep and install this? Last ones I used were the 3M kits back in the late '70s. This enclosure I have is the J.C. Closure II. Echo II?

Is it a clear tube with end-caps and two pour holes? split down the middle axis and will snap together? with hose clamps for each end?
Two part filler epoxy?

Never seen one ! :toothy:

No, if that is it --- use a floating bond, wrap the mesh, open the plugs to fit the cable, snap and clamp, and pour. Quick and easy.

This is what I have. Sorry about the poor quality photo, but I had only a cereal box digital camera handy. The filler is a re-enterable goop of some kind. Do you bring the 2x 100 pair cables to be spliced through the big rectangular shaped bulge on the one end cap? https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/byacey/005.jpg

Bring you cable in the flat end, the "Bung" is the "pour" end. The black "chewing gum" is to seal the cables where they enter. Your bonding and grounding should already be done.

Then the goop. Let set so all the air gets out.

Serves up to 100 pr.

Leftovers to the trash.

Sounds like I'm giving you a cake recipe.

The cable doesn't come in the end that has the multiple "teats' sticking out? What prevents water from leaking in past the wire through the end cap in the future? I sure wish they provided more information with this thing.

The filling compound fully surrounds the cables as they enter the closure, effectively sealing out any water. The "teats" are for buried drop wires to enter if the splice is being used as a distribution poing. Make sure that you scuff the sheath of the cables where they enter with emory cloth. This will ensure that the compound bonds with the jacket and seals it.

Thanks for the replies / info.
How's the weather down in Washington Ed? I was down there the first two weeks of July performing at the Smithsonian FolkLife Festival; Sure was hot and humid down there at that time. At home here we now have about 6 inches of snow on the ground.

Will that gel set at sub freezing temperatures?

Byacey:

Mid-summer can be hot and humid here. It's not uncommon to see temperatures in the high 90's then. Humidity plays a big factor in how sticky it is, but summer in DC is generally expected to be sticky and sweaty. I feel that it takes a lot less time to cool off than it does to warm up, so I will stay here for now. At least we get all four seasons, although some might be abbreviated.

It was 83 degrees (F) according to the bank sign near my house today, even warmer temp is expected on Saturday. That should be the official end of our warm weather from what I can tell since it looks like low-mid 60's next week and downhill from there.

As for your subsequent post, yes, the gel will set in sub-freezing temperatures but you need to take as many measures as possible to keep the splice protected from the elements. It's actually a chemical reaction that is occuring so it's pretty tolerant to the elements. Heat helps to cure the encapsulating material more quickly. If you have the ability to keep the splice warm (+60 F) for an hour or so, you will be assured that the encapsulant material will do it's job. If you can't keep it warm, do the best you can and then then bury the splice as quickly as you can after the pour to protect it from the elements.

Is it necessary to use the parrafin filled "B" caps for the connections? Or is this just being redundant on account of the enclosure gel?

I am assuming that you mean "B" wire connectors, or "beanies". I can't emphasize enough what a bad idea it is to use these connectors anywhere, especially in a buried splice. At a minimum, filled IDC connectors such as Scotchlok UY or UR's should be used.

To answer your second question: No, you can never overdo providing protection from water intrusion when it comes to splicing cable.

I understand a lot of technicians use these b caps without stripping back the insulation on the conductors. This practice I am hesitant about , but I strip the insulation back, twist the conductors together and then use the proper crimping tool to crush the bean. I have never had a bad one yet. The IDC connectors you refer to, is this similar to a 110 comb? In Canada we use the Nordx Bix IDCs which are similar to a 110, but holds the wire much better.

Not stripping the wires is exactly how you should use beanies. They have internal teeth designed to grip and bite into the insulation and conductors with the appropriate pressure for a satisfactory connection. Twisting the bare conductors effectively doubles the diameter of the "wire". Crimping the connector with an approved presser actually exerts enough pressure to cause the teeth to bend over or cut through the conductors. This issue was proven through decades of use by telcos until they realized the problems that B wire connectors were causing.

Filled or unfilled, don't use them in a buried splice. These connectors are only popular because they are cheap and easy. There is a price to pay for this convenience and unless you enjoy digging in frozen soil, I would spend an extra few bucks for connectors that will last in extreme conditions.

IDC connectors are simply replacements for beanies. Scotchloks are by far one of the most popular ones in the U.S. AMP's Tel-Splice or Picabond connectors run a close second. Thomas and Betts now manufacturers what used to be AT&T's 709 series of connectors. All of these are one or two-conductor connectors.

710 modules are similar in appearance to BIX or 110 blocks and use a similar concept. These were originally developed and manufactured in the 1970's by AT&T but are now being made by 3M. This company also has their own family of modules known as MS2. Both systems are referred to as "mass" splicing modules, meaning that they accommodate multiple pairs. 710 modules are made in 5-, 10- and 25-pair versions. MS2 modules are only offered for 25 pairs.

I'm surprised you are using "B" connectors in Alberta. Just like Ed pointed out, here in Ontario we also only use 3M Scotchloks and on the larger pair counts, Picabonds. We never use "B" connectors on phone, only on security systems.

The only time I see beanies used on telco is when some inexperienced alarm guy is wiring in a RJ31 or RJ38X (we call them CA38A jacks here in Canada) and it's just bad practice.

I appreciate the replies; I'll have to hunt down some of the Scotchlocks.
Thanks