I have a new addition to the family coming. It's an Executone 16 button set very similar to a call director in appearance. It is a model # E-316R(B) Key Telephone Set. Does anyone know anything about this set? Is it really 1A2 or something else? It has 2 25 pair amphenols as I would expect to find on a key set this big. And the most important question- Does anyone have a practice for this gem? All searches on google have been fruitless. I would really like to not have to guess about the wiring in a set with 50 pairs. Thanks guys.

I'll check with a former E-Tone employee. See if he knows anything. I don't have a clue.

When I worked for them we installed ITT 1A2 sets.

Sam

Hi Sam, got your email, really long time since I heard that model and was on this forum but let's see if I can help.

ChrisRR

Vintage stuff, from around the mid 70's

It is not a true 1A2 set but you can the line keys to work to work on a 1A2 I believe.

The original KSU for this was the TIE 10S. The set was OEMed by TIE to Executone. It was once OEMed to another company but I cannot remember who that was, I knew this because sometimes we would get a rebuilt from TIE that had their label on the bottom. It was just a more modern looking set then the tie 300's and Gray Whales. I think there was also a Executone E324 model as well.

Things that will not work without the KSU is common bell ringing (it was a tone), speakerphone and the intercom.

You may want to check with some of the guys that worked on the OLD tie (10S & 2050 systems) to see if they have a cut-down for the regular sets, it was very similar if not exact.

Sorry, I don't have a cut-down for it, My stuff went into a dumpster when I was divorced back in the late 80's.

Exactly. It is sort of like 1A2, more like Comkey 718/1434/2152. The line cut down is T, R, A and L. There's a common ground for the lamps. There is no ringer in the set, just an amplifier and speaker that repeats the tone that is sent in over the pair that feeds audio into it (I believe audio is on the yellow/orange and power for the amplifier is on the yellow/slate @ 24VDC). I've wired these into existing 1A2 systems, but it is no walk in the park. I used a 455A KTU from a Comkey 718 system to provide the tone ringing signal.

In a few days when it shows up, I'm sure I'll have some more questions. I'm just glad to know it CAN work with 1A2 and its not just a boat anchor. I'm kind of wondering if there's enough room to squeeze a small ringer like the one in a 2851 set. I forget the number... P1B or something? A speaker and amplifier is an interesting thing to find in there. I'm sure I can find a use for that if I can't make it work for it's intended purpose. Anyways... Thanks a bunch guys and I'll let you know when it shows up and how I make out.

If a bell doesn't fit, you may want to try and find a 90V buzzer and wire it to the CB of your 1A2 equip

I seem to recall that these phones have 24 volt lamps in them, but again, I am not positive about anything regarding them.

As long as they are similar to the 51A lamps, socket-wise, I should be fine. I have a pail full of 51A lamps laying around.
Otherwise I will make up some LED lamps for it. I've modified a few of my 6 button sets with white LED's instead of the traditional lamps. Cuts down the load on LB supply, and they last near forever. Just a 470 ohm (I think) resistor and the led soldered to the tabs. I'll find a pic and post it.

This is one of my crappier 6 button sets I put LED's in:



It doesn't look that glaring in person. My IPhone camera doesn't do it justice.

Here's a pic of the phone I'm getting:

Speaking of 1A2-esque phones...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Go...omain_0&hash=item20ed19b9a0#ht_63wt_1125

Any word on this one?

Looks like the finger-wheel is a little off kilter on that one. I'm guessing something com-key-esque. Or at least more electronic than 1A2 ever thought of being. I have this vague feeling that I read a thread on here somewhere about a goldstar setup.....

(EDIT)Maybe not.

How about this one?

That's a pretty cool phone; says it's made in Japan. Neat!

Believe me... I thought about it. Tie systems... It also isn't a true 1A2 but I bet it could be made to work.

I like the LEDs in that red phone!!

I'll try to get a pic of the inside for you, Jeff so you can see how I did it.

It's not the most elegant looking thing, but it works. I soldered only to the outside of the clips so I could always go back to 51A lamps if I wanted to. Under the blue tape are 470 ohm resistors.

Executone didn't start selling Goldstar stuff until the ECX in about '82. We did put in quite a bit of the TIE 2050 & 919(?) prior to that.

I think that eBay job is a Tie 1030 though I seem to remember them as grey (Grey Whales was what we called them) though they might have also come in Black.

They were not 1950's or '60s - more like '70s. (Which is when I put them in - 1972-74). They were pseudo 1A2 - T,R,A,L with 24V lamps. 10 CO lines, 2 Intercoms 30 stations.

Sam

I got the phone in today. I definitely need a cutdown for this thing. It has printed circuit boards and all kinds of things going on inside. It has only a small terminal board on one side. Most of the cord goes directly to a connector plugged directly into the PCB. The other connector on the cord plugs into the key strips. I really can't modify much of the wiring inside the phone.

See if you can find a Tie 1030/ Tie 10S cutdown. That should work.

Sam

I've spent nearly an hour and a half looking, countless google searches, etc. I'm going batty trying to find a cutdown for this damn thing. Sam, or anyone, if you have any suggestions on how to narrow my search, it would really be awesome. Thanks

I can tell you that most of the pairs start at the top with repetitions of T, R, A and L.

Yea, Ed - but where are the grounds?

Chris, I haven't worked on one of those for 40 years. I haven't a clue where to find one.

Maybe post a request in the Netsuko-Tie forum?

Sam

Chris, the man who modified those Japanese phones for the American market is a close friend of mine. He worked for TIE as their engineering designer for many years. I will ask him to dig out the wiring diagrams for them.

Ed: I did notice that. I took a bare ended pair of wires and ran them down the amphenols and every other pair is a t&r pair. Not sure which of the others is L and A. I suppose a test with the meter from lamp holder to amphenol will reveal which lead is the lamp. Obviously the other will be A. Same goes for the lamp ground I would think. The other problem is when I connect a pair to T&R the phone won't break DT. It's a rotary so polarity shouldn't matter. I wonder if some of the relays and whatnot on the PCB need to be energized for it to work.

Arthur: Thank you!!! That will be an enormous help. There is virtually no information about this phone on the web.

To anyone: I noticed a solenoid attached to the keystrip that when actuated releases the line keys. What purpose did that serve?

Figured out the L and A leads, also found LG, No luck so far finding A1. Maybe in the fridge next to the pickles. Just kidding.

For future seekers of information: wht/blu = tip L1 blu/wht = ring L1 wht/or = A L1 org/wht = Lamp L1 brn/vio = Lamp Ground.

Still working on common A1...

These phones had built-in privacy, so the common tip/ring did come off of the keystrip and through a relay. More than likely, once you get power figured out, this issue will go away.

Chris, I'm wondering if the solenoid releasing the line keys was designed to prevent you from accidentally disconnecting someone.

Situation:

A puts caller on line 1 on hold and does something else in the mean time.

B has line 1 depressed from last call, but hung up. B picks up phone without looking at lamp status. Expects dial tone, doesn't get it and depresses line 2. Caller on line 1 is disconnected.

With all buttons restored every time you hang up you must physically select a line and force you to look at line status.

Sam

I have managed to get all the lamps, and all the tip and ring connections figured out. I know one side of the a-lead but for the life of me can't figure out the common a-lead. I'm thinking it must go through one of the relays or something. I also was able to get the dial to work without modifying anything in the phone. Maybe something on the board makes the set polarity sensitive, which makes no sense with loop-disconnect dialing, but alas, it does dial now. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to get a ringer and a buzzer in there, as there are VERY FEW spare leads, and no access to any of the mounting cord leads because they are all terminated on plugs that connect directly to the key strip or the main PCB. Hopefully Uncle Arthur will come through with a schematic.