atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Security, Alarms and Paging pre wiring new construction how to wire double hung windows

builder asked to us to pre wire new home for future alarm ( we run the cable so if new owner wants alarm its there )

we ran cable to all doors and windows but the windows are double hung so the contacts cant go on top so we ran cable to bottom of windwows since thats the only place I can see contact working

drywall goes up next week so I can move the cable if I done wrong

windows look like this :

https://www.harveyind.com/product_info/vinyl_replacement_windows/classic_double_hung.asp

You should wire it for 2 contacts per window, one in the top and one in the bottom.

In a perfect world both cables would be home ran to the control panel but in reality just run them to an area that will be accessible after the drywall is installed and the alarm installer can series them together and run one back to the panel.

we would only need the second cable on the ones that open from both top and bottom right ?

its small enough we can pull the second cable's tomorrow where need be

thanks
Bobby

Yep, that's it. I always like to run 4 conductor wire (2pair) so I will have a spare pair.

Install a motion

Yep, do it like TT says. I actually just series them as well.

Normally if I'm coming from the ceiling, I hit the top of the window first, loop it and continue to the bottom. When I prewire, I always drill a 3/8" hole on those and leave the wire in it.

On finish, I find you can normally use a 3/8" concealed contact with a different magnet. I use those n-dym magnets (look like a washer). You can buy them like this or I just stock the magnets separately (they come in a tube of 12).

Good point about the motion detector TP.
And we should add the power cable, the keypad cables, the siren cable, the telephone cable... what am I leaving out TP?

Oh, I just took it for granted that skip ran all those other wires. I was being sarcastic about the motion. I hate doing windows, they are a PITA, especially double hung.

I always tell the customer one motion will probably cover all the windows in that room. But if you want protection at night, in the "stay" mode, you need to contact those windows that are easily accessible from the outside.

My basic prewire consists of doing every door and a few motions for interior traps. If they want windows done, it's always extra. Did I mention they are a PITA!

Skip, you still here? Hello?
I think we scared him off TP.
Actually, now is a good time to make sure you have all of your bases covered.

already ran one pair , where just doing the prewire , no contacts or panel.

can I do the loop with a single pair or is it best that each contact have its own ?

seems like one pair looped would work

conceled contacts aren't going to work here concrete construction no window access from the side top or bottom

also what do we need from the panel to the keypad ?
we ran two , single pair (two pair total )

its a fairly small three bedroom home and I want to do it right , I have to go back and pull some network cables tomorrow so pulling a little more alarm at this point is not that big a deal .

I think most keypads now are just 2 pair from the panel.

Where did you find single pair?

Normally security is done with quad (22 gauge JK) wire.

They actually don't recommend paired wires for security, not that it hasn't been done before.

Keypad requires 4 conductors, if it has a zone input on it, it would require another quad from the keypad to the entry door right there.

The concealed contacts are not longer in length than the thickness of the jam.

Oh, and as for your window question, I normally just run one quad to a window even if it's double hung (just loop it like I said earlier). Normally I put a double hung (two contacts in series) on one zone, but yes, as TT pointed out, they recommend one zone per contact. I figure with a quad, you are still able to separate the zones if you want.

Your turn TT, I'm gonna hit that 1k post count tonight yet! :toast:

They make 2C alarm wire...seen it around, from Coleman Cable I believe. But most alarm stuff is quad. My house was wired like 30 years ago, with 10 conductors to the keypads! When we got a new alarm 2 or 3 years ago, we had a motion installed. They just tapped off the extra wires from the old keypad

I got the single pair from the local alarm distributor

I had choice of box or bag and choice of 500 or 1000 feet so it must be used a bit in this area

I don't normally do alarms (as you can tell , right)

good customer called fri ,I went to look at voice and network and intercom yesterday , and the super says by the way can you pre wire for the alarm and it needs to be done by wed :rolleyes:

fortunately everything I have going now is flexible so I was able to work him in

the windows are in and with the new fl hurricane bulding codes they aint coming out ...
concealed would have to go in before the window was installed wouldn't they ?

No, I don't install my concealed contacts for new construction until when I do the finish. I know some guys that do it during the prewire, but if one goes bad, they are in trouble because they can't get them out again due to the joint or wire length.

If they are installed after the fact, you wire them and then push the wiring back into the hole and there will always be slack to remove it again should the need arise.

I tend to use the 3/8" stubby contacts with screw terminals on them. Like I said before, they aren't normally as deep as the wood or plastic jam so there's room for the switch and some wire bunched up behind it. The trick is to have the right size hole drilled in the right spot. Once there's a wire hanging out the hole you can't go back and drill the hole larger.

I think that single pair stuff was probably what they used for the old single loop perimeter systems from years ago. It will work, but in that case, I would home run another line from the other side of the double hung windows. That's two runs for each window.

The two pairs you did for the keypad is good and what I would do is run a pair from that door (entry door) to the keypad (loop it) and then back to the main panel location. That way when they go and finish the system, they can either cut that loop and use the keypad zone or if it doesn't have a zone input, they can wire it to a zone in the main panel.

Any motion detector locations should also have 4 conductors (2 pair).

Also run a pair from the main panel to a siren(s) location. They might want an attic duct siren or outside one later so I always leave a bunch rolled up in the attic.

If your home run location isn't by the breaker box, don't forget to run a pair for power as well.

no motion detectors mentioned so I'm not going to wire for them , they can always do wireless if they need them later .

since this is a "if they decide to install a alarm later" deal I hate to see wire sticking out of the walls in the corner of the rooms

panel will be in the garage with attic access above so I'm not wiring for a siren , access there would be no problem

thanks for the tips guys I appreciate it

Take pics if you can

Just throw up a plaster ring and put a blank face plate on it when done. You could even put the face plate on prior to painting and it wouldn't be very visible painted the same color as the walls.

seems like most big alarm companies just use wireless on the windows if needed as well as the other detection.......

They like wireless because it is easy, I bet if you ask most of their installers when given the opportunity like new construction they will hard wire every time. T%he big companies also only cover a few doors and add a motion detector, if you are luck they will do some windows, all else is extra.

Personally I like to do all windows and doors, plus glass break and motion. I like the glass breaks because if they break a window the alarm trips before anyone actually enters the space.