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Joined: Jun 2005
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Is something like this code-compliant for grounding secondary protectors (66-block type)? In one particular office, this type of setup would make my job a lot easier, but it just seems wrong somehow. I've read through the online version of the NEC, but would appreciate any opinions. I've never seen one of these used before. The link is a picture of a 3-prong plug with only a ground wire running into it: https://www.sandman.com/images/greencoil.jpg ------------------ -Steve
-Steve
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I'd have a problem with that simply becuase it's not hard wired. How likely is it that you'll still have a ground a year after you do the install? Someone will unlplug your ground & won't tell anyone. As far as code, I'm not sure but doubt it would pass.
ElectSys Tech LLCHosted Phone Systems Solutions Provider Allworx, Sangoma, FreePBX Telephone & computer systems in the Jefferson City, Columbia MO area.
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That's what I was thinking - that it most likely would fail on the bonding requirement. Hard to argue that as a permanent attachment! ![[Linked Image from sundance-communications.com]](https://www.sundance-communications.com/forum/wink.gif) ------------------ -Steve
-Steve
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If you're 5 feet from the power cabinet and that is the only outlet, maybe, otherwise no way, who knows what goes on in the other boxes it goes through. I'll add if I were 5 feet from the power I'd still go to the power cabinet. The training I've had on grounding stated that the 3rd wire on a power outlet was not a sufficient ground.
Retired phone dude
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That things a joke you could make one yourself. The NEC says that the secondary protector ground must be run to or bonded to the same service entrance multi-point ground used by the primary protector. In something like an office on the 20th floor this isn't going to happen, at least not directly.
The good news is that if you are only going to ground the secondary protectors you don't need to worry about ground loops or differences in potential between the ground prong on the system line cord and something like a cold water pipe or building steel like you would if you were providing a supplemental ground for the switch.
So yout first choice here would be building steel which should be bonded to the service ground. After that a ground wire to the nearest electrical panel ground. If that's not possible you are stuck with using the ground provided by the electrical receptacle. Ditek makes a wall wart type of surge suppressor with a big binding post and wing nut to connect your ground wire. I believe it has a screw in the center that replaces the wall plate screw so it can't be unplugged easily.
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
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Hey guys, several post on this issue in "Outside wire construction"
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Just do a search on the issue, you'll find more opinions than hairs on your head. Oops may be a bad analogy for some of us. ![[Linked Image from sundance-communications.com]](https://www.sundance-communications.com/forum/biggrin.gif)
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call a local inspector (authority having jurisdiction). Firstly, it MUST be UL listed to even be considered. aweaver, Upstate, and justBill got it right on. I doubt ANY inspector would approve it, it is not permanently bonded. I would run the ground wire.
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