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Hey Reescharohn, If you are at the D-mark few feet away it is not necesserily to activate your CSU/DSU. Signal is strong enough to keep quality.
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A CSU is mandated by the FCC. My point was that it is technically not required to make the thing work.
merlinman makes a good point about the basics. I've been stung more than a couple of times by "seeing" what really wasn't there.
"Press play and record at the same time" -- Tim Alberstein
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Used external CSU and Internal on DCD card. Same result. Here is another strange things. At Smart jack I have only two Green lites if all my cables pluged in. As soon as I am pulling one of them out 1 Red light comes up. I've never seen less then 2 Green and 2 Amber lights if T1 is good but this one has only 2 lights. Something wrong with that Loop. I have to find out what exectely. Buy the way can somebody suggest T1 testing software I can Install in my computer not to be completely helpless?
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Joined: Jan 2007
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There are several flavors of NIU boards out there, so generic descriptions of red, green and amber lamps don't tell anyone here much of anything. What labels are associated with the lights? This could be a true 4-wire repeated T1, or it could be one of those 2-to-4 wire conversion HDSL circuits. The lights are different for each. And for all I know, the customer interface might have a bridging bar, which will cause certain lights on the card to extinguish when almost any 8-wire cable is plugged in.
There is a way to access performance data in the units via serial, but nothing you should mess around with. Other than that, I you're not gonna find any T1 testing software for a PC.
I think I'll send you my cheater, ask you to take a deep breath and then review this stuff one last time.
When you ask the provider what the protocol is set for, what EXACTLY is their reponse?
"Press play and record at the same time" -- Tim Alberstein
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Email sent with "cheater" attached.
"Press play and record at the same time" -- Tim Alberstein
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Joined: Mar 2007
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First off, you have all the testing equipment you need. You have a switch. The problem isn't the equipment it is a problem in understanding specifics about PRI communications.
Isolate the problem. If you put a hardloop on your CSU, back towards your PBX, your system should come up, D-channel will come up as well. If it doesn't you've isolated the problem towards either your hardware or (more likely) your configuration.
If your side does come up, then you know it's either a mismatch on their end, or a hardware issue on their end.
If you loop your T1 card back to itself as I've directed, what happens? You should be able to run a full span diagnostic with your PBX. If it says it's good, it means it.
Something to be aware of-- with PRI, D-CHANNEL is hardwired as NT (network) on the carrier end, and needs set to TE (terminal) on the downleg side-- if it isn't set this way, D-CHAN won't come up.
Wish I were there. Having come down from working in carriers, when I left for a more lucrative job in a smaller company, the first thing I did was buy my own TestPAD 2209, so I could go head-to-head against carriers I work with. Coupled with my vast, expert knowledge of transport (from DS0 to OC192 and all NEs in between)- I have yet to find a carrier who understands how their stuff works as well as I. And that isn't a cheap shot-- I replaced 9 people at one CLEC I worked at and worked _extremely_ hard to know my stuff.
Like I said, wish I were there, I could tell you exactly what the problem was in about an hour and either fix it, or if it's Verizon (likely) force them to clean up their shtuff.
-- Only the fool fears asking a question.
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I agree with looping the T1 card back to itself. I use a modular looping connector for testing channelbank shelves, which I install directly into the T1 port of the shelf. If your configs and hardware are OK, your side should come up. I'm completely unaware of any "T1 testing software" for your computer. T1 testing requires specific equipment, not software (i.e. Sunset, Acterna, T-Berd, etc.). I notice your very first post, TekOps, Inc. Welcome to the board!
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For the curious, a hardloop can be as easy as an RJ45 modular plug and a pair of 22-gauge UTP conductors 4-inches long or so crimped into the plug as follows:
hold modular plug with contacts up, wire-opening down, and squeeze tang AWAY from you. Conductors number 1-8 from left to right.
Connect as follows: ----------------------
1 to 4 2 to 5
crimp it. At this point, I like to take the tail of wire and twist it again a couple of times, leaving a nice little 1/4" round "eye" I can hang the thing from near where I need it.
If you need a female, instead of a male RJ-45, you can go to Home Depot and pick up the female version of the plug, wire the same pins. You can use there "tool" that comes with it, or a punchdown tool.
Hope that helps.
-- Only the fool fears asking a question.
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hold modular plug with contacts up, wire-opening down, and squeeze tang AWAY from you. Conductors number 1-8 from left to right... If you need a female, instead of a male RJ-45, you can go to Home Depot and pick up the female version of the plug, wire the same pins. You can use there "tool" that comes with it, or a punchdown tool.Thanks for the instructions but this isn't a sparkie or computer geek board. And I think Ed would take exception with you calling that plug an RJ-45. By the way- welcome! -Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
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Was installing T1 PRI on Friday with another Provider(InfoHighway). Did not have any problems. same program as previose one. By the way Loop back did not work. I tested this to make sure I have no problem at the other side. In 20 minutes job was completed.
Thank you all!
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