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Joined: Dec 2007
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I know that different states, cities, and counties have different codes and laws. I am needing to find out a few things. If you didn't catch my other post about low voltage licensing, I'm running CAT6 cable in a single floor dental office in Seminole County Florida (Damn December is HOT!). I'm trying to find out what is required and what is not permitted when supporting data and voice low voltage.

1. Can I use ANY drop wire I see? I'm wondering if I am allowed to use the drop wire in place that supports the A/C duct work. If it is permitted and doesn't violate codes that you know of, is it bad practice? Should I just hang my own drop wire from the iron work way up towards the roof? It would save me time to use these J-hooks with bat wings, but I will NOT go against code or industry standard.

2. What is the best way to make the 90 degree turn going down to my comm room? Will a simple J-hook do the trick and then route my cables into a sleeve? (Comm room will be drop ceiling. Any codes on this?

3. Am I permitted to leave a pull string in the conduit and cable runs long term?

Non plenum ceiling with 44 CAT6 runs and 6 RG-6


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1. The general rule of thumb is NO. Every drop wire is supporting a specific piece of equipment and you may not use it for your cables. Local codes DO permit certain attachments to the drop wires that support ceiling grids, A.K.A. "bat wings", but that's up to your local AHJ. Even though Florida has a state-wide licensing/code standard now, the enforcement appears to be all over the place on a city-by-city or county-by-county basis. You really need to ask the local authorities about that one.

2. There's no "code" to speak of with regard to the turn down into the comm. room, but you should do your best to provide a path that minimizes 90 degree turns. Two 45 degree turns are better. A sleeve through the ceiling tile looks mighty professional and I would recommend it, but it's not required.

3. Yes, you may leave a pull string in place in a conduit long-term. There are no restrictions upon this whatsoever.


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You are asking questions that you shouldn't be if you did what you are supposed to do before going into this business. I would suggest that you get yourself a copy of the NEC code book that is in use in your state (probably another trick question for Floriduh). If in doubt the 2002 or 2005 should be good enough since LV hasn't changed much. Study Article 800 on and keep in mind that the front of the book (Articles before 800) does not apply to you unless there is a reference to some article there. This is not a lot of reading. Knowing the code is what most of licensing is about.

The general rule is that you must provide your own supports. Attaching to the ceiling grid support wires is always cause for a violation.

There is nothing in the code that applies to how you exit the ceiling. Nothing wrong with leaving a drag line in conduit either as you will see.

-Hal


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Thanks guys....

Usually when I think something is not right....it isn't and so I don't do it.

I'm asking these questions because I'm not in the business yet.

Even though it doesn't mean much to people or make me a hero. I worked as a sub for the local CATV service here as well as a professional cabling company. I followed every single rule (even if my lead technicians made them up)

It's been a while and I'm obsessing this new single and small install that I have to do. It is for close family and I'm getting back into it so I don't want to cut corners or break rules. That's not my intention at all.

That leaves me to this question...

If I don't have a tool right now to shoot a drop wire (nor the cert) is it ok to tie my drop wire just like I see the A/C drop wire? I can snap some pics today hopefully. They just wrapped around the mezzanine a few times...nothing special.

oh and Hal....I'm definitely picking up that book


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Something to get and study is the Erico Caddy Fastener brand cable hardware catalog.
https://www.erico.com/public/library/Fixing/FieldCat/LT0454.pdf

This will give you the concept of how to hang cables from the ceiling with "L" brackets, beam clamps, the smash on's, and threaded rod.

My first violation occurred in a plenum ceiling where I ran short of blue plenum cable. I substituted a single blue non-plenum cable and thought I buried it pretty well. The inspector, took a look at the cable, asked if it was all plenum, and suggested that I get the non-plenum cable out of the ceiling by the next day!

I always say to myself when I hang cable "What Would Roger Say." It isn't worth the embarassment if you get caught. He's still inspecting jobs and gave me flying colors two weeks ago. I made sure that I used tons of extra "L" brackets.

Carl

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That is one fine resource.

I don't have the time to run down to my supplier and get a paper copy.

THANKS

Now I've got to dig up my 12' A frame ladder either way. The mezzanine is UP there!


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This is one of those losse areas. The code says all cables must be independently supported. This is easy enough to accomplish in a new install. The inspectors quite rarely pay any attention to LV unless it is a plenum. Then they are very strict. Nonetheless, code is code and you can never go wrong by following it to the letter. I have gotten lazy on a couple of jobs and bent the hangar rule but the inspector never cared. I do not advocate this practice, in my case we were up against a deadline and ran out of hangars and the nearest distributor was a 2 hour round trip away.

The thing is absolutely nobody cares about adds and changes in existing builds. People break all kinds of rules. I've seen whole bundles laid on top of light cans. It's amazing how lazy installers can get when they know their work won't be inspected.

The best way to make a 90 is a big 90. I typically make a service loop of about 10 feet and secure it with a large bridle ring. 20-30 cables per loop only or the weight will cause pinching. If there will be a lot of cable I like to mount ladder rack and lay the loops on top of that.

The general rule of 90s is that they are ok so long as the radius is no less than 4 times the width of the cable. This works out to about a 2 inch diameter circle. So 90s are OK if gradual, the wider the radius the better. If you make the radius big enough you basically are making 2 45's or 3 30s. And this is especially important with cat6.

You can and should secure a length of EMT capped at both ends with sleeves and insulator rings. In my opinion this is the only way to transition through the ceiling. I can't tell you how many times I run into installs where they went down through the wall and out through a cutout.

You can leave a pull string in the conduit, it is done all the time.


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