atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums General General Telephone & Systems Information overhead music

OK, last 2 question on this topic I promise!

I am looking to find a door sensr for the TPU that can hook into the amp and chime wen the door opens. Anyone have any ideas on this. All I seem to find is one that hook into a security system. I am assuming I need one that has a power supply of some sort to provide the chime to the TPU.

I will have a volume control in each office to adjust the volume in that office only, therefore I will need to patch in multiple speaker cables into the TPU. What is the best way to do this and still allow each office to control thier own volume? Is there a patch black for speaker wire?

Thanks.

A magnetic reed switch, like the kind security systems use will work fine. You don't need power,just a closure- something that shorts the chime conections on the TPU to tell it to sound off.

I would use a barrier strip and spade terminals on the end of the speaker wires back at the backboard.

You may want to use a door switch that has a momentary contact otherwise the tone will sound for the full time the door is open for the speaker wires connect only one wire to amp and bring out to terminal block I like screw terminals for this type of application or you can go cheap and use wirenuts

I will have a volume control in each office to adjust the volume in that office only, therefore I will need to patch in multiple speaker cables into the TPU. What is the best way to do this and still allow each office to control thier own volume? Is there a patch block for speaker wire?

Just daisy chain from one attenuator to the next starting from the amplifier. Then from each attenuator do a run to the associated speaker. Unless the place is really big or there is some reason to have multiple runs back to the amplifier there is no need to do it that way.

If you need to splice the preferred method is wirenuts. I like to crimp spade lugs in the wires that connect to the amp terminal strip if it has screws.

I know this flies in the face of what we are used to as telephone techs (homerun everything) but this is a different trade and that's the way it's done.

-Hal

Originally posted by JBean: Actually a security contact is normally closed, which means it works the opposite from the way you want it. You will need a normally open contact, a little harder to find but they are available. You might find a SPDT (3 terminal NO/NC) contact easier. These are used on higher level security systems, but as Merritt pointed out, it will sound for as long as the door is open.

A better solution is an Edwards 236 door contact. It will only trip once on opening. It works great on in-swinging doors. If you have an out-swing door, you will have to MacGyver some kind of a bracket on the door to hit the paddle or if there is a second out-swing door such as in a lobby, you could mount it there.
https://www.edwards-signals.com/index.cfm?Level=47&PG=3&PID=166

Hal has it. Barrier strips work if you need a common point (think a 66 block for IW). You have probably seen these in comm closets as the "white noise" systems loop up the riser in multi-story buildings.

Crimp on for wire terminals at the "volume controls" and even the speakers. Splices that are not terminated should be the "Buchanon cap" crimped on with the appropiate crimping too.

OOPS! Forgot this isn't a government job!

:toothy:

Crimp on for wire terminals at the "volume controls" and even the speakers.

Actually the "better" attenuators such as from Atlas Sound will have Phoenix style connectors. Others as well as the speaker transformers will have leads. No reason to use anything but the right size wire nut. Matter of fact there is reason NOT to use crimp splices, especially on the speaker transformer leads. Dollars to donuts you are going to have to go back and adjust the levels (taps) on at least some speakers (maybe several times) and it's a lot quicker and easier to take the splice apart with a wire nut than cut off the crimp and redo it each time.

Another reason I can think of for not using crimps is that being able to easily take apart the loop makes troubleshooting easier.

-Hal

Correct, and when it comes to sound and audio, less length on your wiring is less stress on the amp.

Hal, you are correct on the crimps for general use, wire nuts are easier. And it was hard for you to see my tongue in my cheek from were you are at. :read:

The other was the world headquarters of an energy company called "Aquila". It was a natural gas version of Enron. Same end result as in went broke and took everyone down with them. They spec'ed just like the Gov't.

:bang:

And, yes, the good stuff has the "tails" and are fast. But don't follow a "sparky" after he adds a speaker and blows the amp. Now you know why I am "fair haired" (what I have left)and don't like doing paging/noise/music anymore. :scratch: