sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Step bit extender?

I use a stepped bit from time to time on metal caps to drop my cable down through, but sometimes I could use an extension bit holder of a foot or so to get where the drill won't reach. Does anyone have an extension that fits these fatter shafts on step bits? Even better, is there one long enough to reach the occassional metal stud halfway down the wall cavity? If I encounter those, there's no getting around them.

I have been just buying the Vermont American ones at Lowe's that will fit a standard 3/8" extension. They don't jerk you around as much either since they go up to 7/8" in very small increments instead of the big jumps used on some of the other brands.

I welded one to a one foot extension and just use it be careful tho, if the bit grabs like ED said you can do more damage than good. Believe me I know

I used a step bit today to fix a fan at my hardware store. Bought the bit on eBay, works like a charm!

You work in a hardware store, but bought a drill bit on Ebay? :rofl:

I always use a 1-3/8" hole saw to put a hole in the top plate. I never have need for an extension because I always put a plastic bushing in any hole I run wire through in metal framing. If I encounter something half way down I either relocate or if that's not possible I love to use my little saw to make an opening where the obstruction is. That way I can notch the metal, put a bushing in and pull my wire.

As for the hole, patch it, tell 'em to hang a picture over it or just cut in a Caddy MPLS like we do for jacks then cover it with a blank plate.

It's important to use bushings guys. That's the code and those sharp edges will hack up your wire in no time.

-Hal

Hal:

We use the step-bit that gives a 7/8" hole and then we use the 1/2" snap-in bushings during retrofit work.

We use the metal stud punch in open (new) construction with the standard 1" bushings.

Speaking of step bits;
We are seeing alot of the silent floor wood trusses being used here. Some call these the "wood I-beam" with the knock outs that you are supposed to be able to hit out with a hammer. Problem is the knock outs never seem to line up or are a bitch to knock out. The step bits drill through this chipboard like butter. You can use a rechargeable drill and they don't get hung up like auger or speed bits. I have one that does maximum 1-3/8" and it works great.

The reason the knock-outs don't line up is that the carpenters don't keep the "starting end" of the trusses the same, as in they get flipped around or cut. Not much that can be done about that. These things have been around this area for 25 years.

The nice thing about them is that you can pretty much drill anywhere you want and not worry too much about the size of the hole. In a new house I bought in 1987, they cut out (from top to bottom) the entire web to allow an 8"X16" air plenum! True, the house danced whenever anyone walked around and the furniture would shake, but it was nice not having so many duct chases in the finished basement.

Well, it's not true that you can cut any size hole anywhere in these things. There are manufacturer specific instructions on how big and where. I'll try and find them and post them here.

Keep in mind also that some GC's and inspectors don't understand this and their policy is ANY hole in manufacturered lumber not put there by the factory must be OK'd by an engineer. So if you are doing new construction make sure you find out what you are permitted to do BEFORE you get the drill out or you could wind up paying to replace or strengthen the joists you drilled.

-Hal