sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring right hardware for backboard install

I did a remodel recently using armored cable, snaking across a wall to get to a wall heater on the other side. Then the carpenter came along to mount the handrail for the stairway, and managed to hit the cable dead center in the only place along the entire run where it was possible to hit it. The cable was snaked, so no nail plates in some locations. It actually worked out ok, with a j-box on the stairway wall, and 3/8 flex feeding the heater, which had a internal outlet, with 1/4" spade-lugs in a micro -miniature j-box, which was way too small to terminate 12awg solid into. The j-box let me pull use stranded, and pull the slack back 2' to the j-box. Whoever designed that heater obviously never had to install one.

We use 3" DeckMate brand outdoor decking screws and a washer for backboards. Unlike the Phillips brand from Lowes, the DeckMates use a #3 cross point bit and even better a square bit.

Neat trick for one man backboard hanging. After I find the studs, I'll mark them in pencil (painters and wallpaper installers hate ink pen or permanent markers as it bleeds through) at the top and bottom a few inches above and below where the plywood will fit. Then I drill a hole in middle of the back board at the top and slam it up against the drywall. It will stay there long enough for me to put a level on it and then the final screws.

I have started to use hex head sheet metal screws lately, based upon the guidance of Ed.
I still have tons of drywall screws though
In my theater set building class, we use drywall screws for everything (platforms, walls, steps, props), and rarely have a problem.

Not to derail the topic too much, but I need to point something out to Jeff on theatrical construction.

Theatre construction only has to last a couple months and it only has to look good from 20 feet. Yeah, I use drywall screws a lot too, but they sure do have some issues. I screw my flats to the deck and to each other. Every once in a while the screws to the deck get so badly stuck, that when trying to remove them the head snaps. At which point the only way to remove the flat is to unsecure it from the other flats next to it and above it, then try to push it over onto the floor, hopefully levering out the screw from the deck. Sometimes this doesn't work, and the screw stays in the deck, and I have the next ten minutes of fun finding my locking pliers, and untwisting the screw. At worst, the screw comes out of the floor, still in the bottom rail of the flat, and there's a nice gaping hole in the deck. And I still have to dig out the locking pliers to remove the screw from the flat. If I'm lucky and the flat is mostly free-standing, I can spin the whole thing and work the screw out of either the flat or the deck, but it's rare.

I've been trying to justify the cost of buying real steel screws with square drive, but in community theatre, I have no budget, I create everything from scratch, and drywall screws are the king of cheap... for a reason.

We have the same issues quite often. At my high school we constantly reused old drywall screws. At least here at UT we use new ones whenever we build something.

Those Hilti anchors Richy mentioned are great

My third sale ever was a travel agency in the 80s. The idiot tech I hired installed a Tie CX(?) on the wall with wood screws into sheetrock with no anchors. Just into the drywall.

The next morning they called and said they heard a horrendous crash and the phones stopped working.

We always use 3/4" quality plywood backboard (now), secured to studs or 100lb rated anchors (the Home Depot type in the clear/orange/white boxes).

I forgot to mention that the biggest mistake I've seen in the field is when techs assume when they see plywood already on the wall that it was secured properly. Many times we'll see a 4x8 3/4" full sheet of plywood installed on a sheetrock wall with just a dozen sheetrock screws.

That is what we can a booby trap. You start hanging equipment. When it crashes off the wall it is your fault, not the person who originally put the backboard on there.

If the plywood is already there, add 3-4 big toggle type screw/bolts across the top as a minimum and/or add screws into wood studs if there.

What Mike said....period.

We are now we are into a new project installing 4U or 6u frames onto a back board which is installed on steel columns. So far takes longer to drill with titanium drill bits then finishing off with self taping bolts. Good and solid install.

Now I come walking into my warehouse and see particle board where the plywood backboards normally are stored. I said to my self "what is this? Boss is going cheap on backboard material?"

I am leary of particle board material. This is the same type used in the construction of desk based on what its composition. My question is this material suitable to hang a 4u/6u frame on with two Cisco switches and a patch panel?

After we install the backboard and the network a carpenter should come in after and turn the backboard into a cabinate with locking front door.