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Actually any of the methods mentioned Scotchlok would probably be the most available or the 709 for ease of use I'd get the filled ones. The 709 is the only one that doesn't recommend the proper tool. I used the word recommend on purpose so we don't get inundated with how to use dikes, needle nose or pliers. laugh Me I'd probably use beans, with the proper tool, depending on location filled or dry.


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If repulling the cable is not an option, what is the best way to splice a cut phone? For example, a 4pr Cat3 cable is cut in a ceiling and there is little to no slack in the line. What is the best way to fix that?
I would cut the cable and scothlock a jumper piece of 4 pair inline , use tie wraps to secure the jumper at the splice points


Skip
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Bill, I agree totally on the "beans"......remember when they came in a "machine gun belt" with box and air powered crimper? Pairmatic? I also remember when SWBT went to Scotchlocks with the Aluminium Bullet strip crimper....I have climbed poles with open splice (RA) covers that sprinkled Scotchlocks on the hard hat just like hail falling from the sky....freezing forces the jell to expand.

GTE required all splices (when I was contract splicing in Iowa) that E9E tool to be used on Scotchlocks.


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Not sure which thread mentioned these, today I picked up a Fluke Networks Need-L-Lock at Home Despot for $14.00. Should help crimp the scotchloks properly. I have screwed up a few using my Gerber multi-tool. I wondered what the correct tool for the job was, but could not find it anywhere (due to not knowing what it was called). Thanks for the info guys.

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the needlock is a great tool , I like mine but its for scotch locks , not beanies


Skip
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Ooops, meant Scotchloks. Been a long day.

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Ken,
I never used the beans strips, I have spliced with other folks that used them. I was faster just with my crimper. The Scotchlok guns I've never used but the Qwest guys here have them. I think most of it is just what you prefer. I've been on quite a few trouble calls around here where the termination teeth in a Scotchlok were just gone due to lightning. Guess they make a good fuse link.


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My old partner was once the fastest splicer in the Bell System. His name was "Moe" (Morgan) Harris and he came from an era of the three "S"s - Stripping, Spinning and Sleeving. He had gotten his start as a lineman in the Marines in Korea. He said nothing encouraged you to accurate speedy splicing then being up on a pole and being shot at.

He once raced someone using a tool (3M,? Picabond? -I don't remember) while he stripped and spun and sleeved by hand. It was a 2700 pair splice and he said he beat the machine by 6 hours. But it was to no avail - he said all it proved was that now anybody could splice.

Sam


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When I worked for the feds, my splicer had worked for AT&T Long Lines splicing lead then got promoted to corporal splicing in Korea..... laugh

I was taught the 3 "S" system on toll cable prior to my becoming a "wrench" splicer...but I still showed the old corporal how to "brush" a torch-wiped sleeve so it could be re-used. Then he showed me respect!

Now, somewhat back on topic, I have "spliced" multi-pair Cat 5 cable (25 pair) using standard 110 blocks....checked with Fluke and T-berd....no faults found.

Have a good weekend.....just remember, no matter what connector you use, use the correct tool!


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Quote
Originally posted by skip555:
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If repulling the cable is not an option, what is the best way to splice a cut phone? For example, a 4pr Cat3 cable is cut in a ceiling and there is little to no slack in the line. What is the best way to fix that?
I would cut the cable and scothlock a jumper piece of 4 pair inline , use tie wraps to secure the jumper at the splice points
Thank you, Skip. I've done that before pretty much the way you described... I just didn't know if that was the best way.

A few more question about splices: if you (I) run out of UY2s, is it okay to use UR3s with two wires?

Also, does anyone make a 4 or more way splice for telephone wire? I've run into a few situations where one home run of telephone wire was 'spidered' out from one point (I think it's called star topology) to multiple points instead of daisy chained from one jack to the next. Seeing 4+ wires wrapped around a terminal screw makes me cringe, and wire nuts are out of the question. I suppose I could use 2 UR3s, but that seems a little Rube Goldberg to me as well. What is the best way to deal with existing phone wiring that has been installed in this configuration, as far as joining or splicing all the wires go?

PS: Thanks for the picture, Jeff.

Jack


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