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Joined: May 2002
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Yes they work fine no problem if crimped correctly. Your second question use a UR with a tail to another UR, if that's the only choice you have.


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.......or use a bunch block. Multiple wires under a screw is okay as long as there is a washer between the wires.


Ken
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Star Topology is defined as when you have a central location like an MDF and feed out with individual home runs to all your locations. It is considered superior (for obvious reasons) to the other standard which is Bus Topology. That is defined where you run from one location to the next to the next (daisy chaining).

What Bill & Ken said. Either option would work though I would go for a block as a preference.


Sam


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Quote
A few more question about splices: if you (I) run out of UY2s, is it okay to use UR3s with two wires?
two wire is a Uy

[img]https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtmxTyMx&_EV7yEbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--[/img]

three wire is a UR

2 0r 3 wires are acceptable

[img]https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtmxTyMxTEEV7yEbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--[/img]


more on Scotchlok here


Skip
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Serving SW and West central Fl since 1984
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Klein makes a very good scotchlock crimper with a coil spring and cutter. D234-6C. Perfect crimps every time. About $25-30.

Sam


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I have the klien and they are better than the 3m

I carry one of these now

Product Capabilities

The Need-L-Lockâ„¢'s patented four-in-one tool combines a UR/UY/UG crimper, needle nose pliers, wire stripper and cutter. This means one less tool on your belt! Aligned crimping jaws come down square ensuring a solid connection. Jaws are grooved to provide a better grip on wires and feature a built-in cutter and wire stripper. These 6.5" (16.5 cm) needle-nose crimping pliers are forged of high-quality steel with rubber-coated ergonomic handles for a reliable, non-slip grip.

[Linked Image from flukenetworks.com]


Skip
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Serving SW and West central Fl since 1984
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I've got a pair of those too. They were on clearance at HD (along with mostly all of the Fluke stuff)
They work very well.


Jeff Moss

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Anybody remember when the "ready access"concept first came out?Any installer or splicer could access any pair in a 49 type terminal.Connections to terminal blocks were originally made with b wire connectors.It became apparent to me early on that the Bell Systems' tool policy was"if we don"t give you the tool then you don't need it".They weren't about to issue every installer a b connector presser.A Bell System Practice from 1962 shows how to use the long nose pliers to crimp b connectors.It also points out that crimping by this method is not as good as a soldered joint,but it was superior to a twisted joint.

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49C2? Ready Access? :bang:

Forget about the risk of faulty connections. Improperly-replaced covers turned those things into aerial wasp or yellow Jacket nests. Nobody ever put those covers back on properly and even when they did, there were enough gaps, abandoned drop holes, etc. to turn them into a test to see how fast you could get town a pole. I used to carry a "F" broomstick to whack on those things from about 8 feet below to "see if anyone was home". More often than not, it was fully occupied.


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I had a FP tech (real nice guy, former AT&T CO/circuit tech he told me) a couple weeks ago tell me about how great AMP connectors are. I looked at the tool he had, and man it was cumbersome (and probably really expensive). Didn't appear to be easy to stick each wire end into the opposite sides of the the AMP. Looks to be very easy to not get the wire seated all the way into the connector and make a bad crimp, thus wasting wire. The scotchlocks, however, waste very little amounts of wire if you make a mistake. I will give AMP a point in that they keep the splice inline, and not coming out the same direction as the scotchlocks do.

Are there any other pros/cons to the the AMP connectors?
Is AMP known by another name that has already been discussed?

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