atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Telephone Repairs & Equipment Harris TS22 buttset repair

Can anyone tell me if this is a TS22? From pics online etc. I believe thats what its. It says GTE on the back. The ASSY # is 021-723178-001 and 30 1991 is stamped by the clip.

Here are my questions:

The manual says what the 9v battery is for, but whats is the 3v for? Memory, Redial, etc.?

Are there test points for the 3v?

Why does the manual say dont drain the 3volt battery?

Is the 3V battery replaceable? If so how? It appears to have a clear coating is that to make it weather resistant?

If my 9volt has been drained for a year and never replaced did this damage the phone?

Thanks, sorry if these questions are basic.

Oh, that's definitely a TS22 (a custom version made for GTE) and well-worth keeping. The coin cell is for temporary retention of the stored numbers in memory while you are changing the 9 volt battery. If it's completely sealed with encapsulant, you can cut it free with a razor knife to replace it. It's just a standard coin cell battery, available at Radio Shack.

No harm was done by not having a good 9V battery in the set except that it probably killed the 3V battery trying to retain the memory. With both batteries replaced, you'll get many more years of use out of it.

thank you kind sir!

You are very welcome. Great to have you here as a new member. Come back anytime.

Explains why mine went dead today too. Guess i'll buy a $3 9v and $5 button-cell.

AAA, L & M Communications may be able to answer your questions and might have that part you need.
https://www.buttsetrepair.com/
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Nice to have you aboard
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MrG

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1. Learn something new

Done

I can't believe my luck in coming across this thread (through general web searching) — I just got my hands on a TS22L earlier today and am trying to figure out what's going on with it, and had been suspecting the internal battery. I've also been searching for a place for telecom discussion — I'm sure I'll be sticking around here.

So, is there a chance that the CR2032 being low could cause further issues? Checking testpoints, it looks like it's at 0.7 V. Inside, this TS22L appears to be in perfect condition (no scorch marks ) but it's completely nonfunctional. At one point, I managed to turn on the external speaker and listen to the line, but that's it.

I can see some change in resistance when flipping the hookswitch, but it's not taking the line off hook and I can't hear any clicks or changes in volume when listening on another extension. The internal speaker's silent, the line check LEDs are dark, and the keypad doesn't produce tones.

Sorry to jump onto the board demanding answers, but... any ideas?

I think its probably the internal batteries , its a cheap enough way to start

give it a try and let us know

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Hello Sidney...


well, now that that's outta the way

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Welcome to the board!

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When you say "turn on the external speaker and listen to a line"

Are you on dial-tone, off-hook, then turn on the speaker and can hear dial-tone?

If so, sounds like it is working...but if you can not break dial-tone, when off-hook, off speaker (on the receiver), then that is a different issue.

As far as I've ever experienced with mine... I have had the 9V battery die... been removed and can still use it in non-speaker form (receiver mode). I would assume that the only thing the 9V battery powers is the speaker (I do not know for sure, that's why I say assume)

Now I just spent a minute "googling" and found a link to a PDF of the specs for the TS22L ---> click here

The internal battery (3V) would be my guess for the rest of the problems you state.

The odd thing is, I thought the line check LED's were line powered... as well as keypad tones.

Try replacing the 3V and see if that clears it up first... they are cheap.

A dead 3v battery will kill a TS22..

Thanks for the welcome — and the advice.

Replacing that 3V cell was hellish. The waterproof coating on everything is amazingly tough — I'd stick my knife under the battery, it'd get pushed back out. Only after an hour or two did I manage to separate the old battery.

It works perfectly now. Couldn't be happier.

AAA — I found several "testpoints" that would get me the voltage of the 3V, but easiest turned out to be common (black on the 9V clip) to +V on the battery itself, which is conveniently a huge, exposed surface.

They certainly do make it tough to replace that 2032 button battery but that's exactly why both of my TS 22's went dead. I cut out the old batteries from the main board with an Xacto knife which is a real chore, soldered a couple of short leads to the connection points which broke off and just black taped the ends to the + and - sides of the new battery and let it sit there loose. Now I can change the battery easily if I ever have the same problem again. Both test sets are now up and running. Thanks for the excellent tip and money saver...Fred.

I don't use my TS22L often and when the thing was dead after a couple of years I opened it up to see what was going on.

The installed CR2032 coin battery is the problem. There is no current draw from it as long as the 9v battery is good. But there is constant 'draw' on the 9v and it will drain down after a couple of years . . . taking the coin battery with it.

I removed the original coin battery [major pain with all the hot-glue on it]. Then I robbed a coin-battery holder from an old computer motherboard and soldered it onto the butt set circuit board. Now it is an easy task to swap coin batteries.

I believe if you routinely replace the 9v battery once a year [more often if heavily used] . . . the coin battery will probably last it usual 'shelf-life' of around 10 years.

Let the 9v sit for a couple of years and you'll be replacing both batteries.

DON

I have a TS-22 as well, with a similar problem. I used harris buttsets every day as a phone tech. My amplifier won't work when selected, I also have the failed lithium cells, and notice there are actually three batteries on this unit. There is the lithium coin cells, the 9V battery, and also another cell on the board, perhaps also lithium

I will try replacement of the lithium cells, I would suggest trying to visit a specialty battery store, mine will spot-weld new tabs as needed.

I know this comes a little late, but something you folks should be aware of. The lithium Battery not only helps to retain the memory when changing the 9v battery, but if your TS22 has data lock out, it also powers a microprocessor that looks for the data signal. If the lithium battery goes dead (and this happened to me on both of mine) the microprocessor can lock up and changing the battery will not fix it. the unit is dead in the water so to speak. If anyone needs it, I have the contact information for a company that will fix the TS22 series butt sets for a flat rate (65.00 each last time I had mine fixed) and they will replace the Microprocessor board with one that will not lock up and battery sockets that make changing the battery easy.

Good to know, wonder if the new TS22 come withthe upgraded board.

There was a lawsuit because of the battery problem:

https://www.ts22settlement.com/

Here's just a quick update on my TS22 9V battery fix. I found that after awhile just using black tape to hold the leads to the battery doesn't last. A better fix is to use the CR2032 battery holder that Radio Shack sells for around a buck. Solder this to the mainboard using a couple of short pigtails and now the battery can be changed without further grief. Fits inside the case perfectly and works like a charm.....Fred

Did you really try to tape the leads on? :rofl: hehe. Yes that's the way to go on the battery replacement for sure. Here's some pics on the one I did.

https://www.sundance-communications.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?/ubb/get_topic/f/32/t/000139.html

Hi there, I just acquired a TS 22 and and it's dead! the leads are ok but no resistance what so ever across the tip and ring terminals. Have someone came across this problem yet?
kwatong : :confused:

First thing you need to do is replace the internal battery. Go to the link I posted a few posts up and you'll see how to replace it with a serviceable option.

thanks tito 1411 I'll do that!

Hey tito1411, thanks a lot for the tip. I did exactly what you have done and it worked! Also to clean up the silicon like gunk, I used turpentine, and it dissolved the gunk, but slowly- I used a tiny brush to apply the turp.

Excellent!

I have a Fluke networks TS 42Deluxe Test Set, it was perfect, then the amplifier went dead, I changed the 9v battery and still the same,does this test set have a back up lithium battery like the TS 22?

I don't see anything in the manual about an internal battery besides the 9 volt. Have you tried resetting it by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds? Its possible the speaker may have gone bad. Use another butt set hooked up to the speaker leads or another small speaker to see if you get audio. If so then its just a bad speaker.

I get dialtone on the earphone, but when I press the speaker button, nothing happens, looks like the amplifier was disconnected from the system, some how.The sad thing was, I bought this unit on line and have 3 yrs warranty, the repairer here in Australia have the option to repair units bought overseas, and my emails go un-answered! so I guess I'm stuck with a faulty fluke!

Could just be a bad speaker. Take it apart and try the test I recommended a few posts up. If it is the speaker you can replace it yourself.

I am experiencing feedback via the speakerphone on my TS22A - when I hold the set in front of me while I am connected with the clips, it crackles and gives loud feedback noise. Any suggestions?

Thanks!