sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Security, Alarms and Paging Front Door lock control with Strata DK280

Hello, We have a Toshiba Strata DK280 phone system and would like to install a electronic locking with keypad (for the employees to enter in the morning) and door phone(so Fex Ex can let us know they are there). I'm pretty sure I need the Toshiba part#'s ddcb and mdfb for the door phone but I need advice on what electronic lock (so we can buzz Fed Ex in) to purchase to use with our standard metal latch locked door.

Thank you for any advice, Matt

Hello and welcome to the board.

The HDCB or DDCB, depending upon which door phone (digital or electronic) you use will function with just about any electronic lock systems available. All it does is provide a short which will trigger the lock or the controller.

If it is a standard metal frame with an ANSI cutout, the larger cut out for latch plate on door frame not the smaller one like on a residential door, and a clyindrical lockset, I would recommend a HES 5000 strike (https://www.hesinnovations.com/hes2/5000.cfm). They have a pretty small footprint so there is less cutting, and they are field selectable for 12 or 24vdc operation. For panic hardware, or crashbar, they also have a 9600 surface mount strike. You would also need a power supply which can be as simple as a plug in dc transformer, most electric strikes pull less than 150ma but when in doubt check the spec sheet. If you pay my airfare from NJ I wuold be glad to come install it for you... Or you can email me or post some pictures of the door and frame and I can help you a bit further.

Jim

I personally like the Rutherford Controls 6 series of strikes. Low profile and field selectable 12 to 24 volts AC or DC. If you use AC, it will buzz as well to let them know you are releasing. Rutherford also carriers power supplies and they really stand behind their product.

If the jam doesn't have the standard ANSI cutout, I normally work with a friend who's a locksmith. He has the proper punch out tool (much quicker than me cutting it with a jigsaw) and he installs a release paddle on the inside for me (if it's not a crash/panic bar type door).

I have a similar situation as well. I have the relay coming from the KSU and provides a short with the push of a button but I am trying to explain to the customer about the hardware required. However, I have a problem myself with the terminology. I gather that they will need an electric door strike and a power supply with relay input. Question is: What kind of power supply would I be looking for? I have checked rutherford and I see conversion from low-voltage AC to DC but the relay does not output any power. Am I wrong? If possible, please provide a link to the correct power supply. I am not installing the door lock but I would like to provide a visual for the customer so he can show his locksmith. Thanks ahead of time.
-shawn

It all depends on the electric strike as to what power supply you require.

The strikes are available in an AC only, DC only, and field selectable.

The advantage to AC strikes is that most of them will buzz during activation. This will alert the user that the door is being released for them. Since it's AC, there is no battery back-up so when the hydro is out, it doesn't work. They are normally "fail secure" which means they are locked at the loss of power. This means you would require another means of unlocking that door such as a key on the outside and a paddle or crash bar on the inside (can't use a double key with this lock for fire exit purposes). The power supply can just simply be a plug-in or wire-in "door bell" type transformer. AC type installs are normally the cheapest due to less parts and lack of a timer. You have to make sure that the relay energizes for the duration of the pressing of the button (or add an AC timer relay).

When using a DC strike, you will require a power supply unit. It will power the strike as well as trickle charge a battery back-up. The power supplies normally have a fire panel disconnect terminal and reset switch on them. This allows you to have the door locked from both sides (if you require that) yet allows it to unlock in case of a fire (check fire codes, you will have to install a fire pull beside the door labelled that it will release the door). If you want audible status, you will have to install a DC buzzer paralleled off the strike terminals.

DC strikes are available in "fail secure" and "fail safe" modes. With "fail safe," the door is unlocked on a power outage so that you don't trap anyone inside. Obviously this wouldn't be good for an external door but maybe fine for an internal.

The other advantage of running a DC strike is that you will have a DC supply to run a stand-alone keypad to unlock the door locally.

I understand fail-secure and fail-safe and this installation will be on an internal door preferably with a fail-safe strike. This should be a simple electric strike with no heavy-load-use. I am concerned about acquiring the right power supply. I need to be able to convey to the locksmith that he/she needs a switchable power supply which sends power to lock the door when my relay activates. Therefore, I need relay contacts on a simple plug-in power supply and lacking the terminology, I have not been able to find pictures or information while searching.

I would run the strike at 24 volt AC. Use a plug in AC power supply such as a CCTV camera supply (24VAC@20VA). Pretty common here is the ATC-Frost
line (FPS2024), not sure if you have it there but use something similar.

Use a 24VAC relay wired off the same supply having the phone system's contact closure switch the relay which in turn energizes the strike to release. If the phone system doesn't keep the contact closure working for as long as you are pressing the button, use a timer relay instead of a normal relay.

Let the locksmith do what he does best, the lock. You do the electronics. He might want to supply the strike which is fine, just specify that you want a 24VAC capable strike.

I am a card access installer, and when we are working with a phone vendor to provide remote unlock there are a few ways we can do it.

1. Have the phone relay unlock for 5 seconds or so, and simply series power to the lock thru the relay on the phone switch. You would need a simple plug in supply, ac or dc, and a lock.

2. Use the relay from the phone switch to provide a trigger to a timer module, such as an Altronix 6062, when then provides closure from the supply to the lock.

3. Use the relay on the phone switch to trigger an input on either a card access system or keypad, which then takes care of the timed unlock.

You can get a plug in DC transformer, or you can get a kit which has an enclosure, regulator board, and battery backup, so the system would work if there is a power outage, I assume the phone system is on a UPS. If you have an electric strike that buzzes when unlock it is in the wrong application, typically a DC strike fed with AC and the hum you hear is the solenoid vibrating in the lock housing, which will lead to a decreased lifespan and can lead to heat problems if installed in a wood door.

If you simply want to provide a door release thru the phone system all you would need is a power supply, such as an Altronix SMP3, a timer, Altronix 6062, and a strike, if it is a metal door with a cylindrical leverset a HES 5000 would work nicely.

You could also provide a keypad on the outside of the door to allow people to go thru without having to use the phone, such as an IEI stand alone keypad. Or you can give them a small card access systems, such as an HID Entryprox, wihch is a standalone card acess sydstem, it gets programmed thru a keypad on the front of the unit and you can program the aux inputs on it to remotely release the door.

Thank you both for the information. The phone system will provide closure for as long as I need. I now understand what I need to get.