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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2
Member
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Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2 |
I have a small project to hook up an existing door strike to the phone system. I can remove the strike and see a power cable in there but I believe it goes no-where. I've checked all over, no cable, no transformer. It's a typical steel door frame.
I have a locksmith associate who can wire it for me for a fee but I am just curious how it's done. Are there typically knockouts at the top of the door frame that protrudes from the sheetrock and you snake from there down?
Any ideas are appreciated.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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RIP Moderator-Mitel, Panasonic
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RIP Moderator-Mitel, Panasonic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,056 |
Can't help you with the mechanical installation particulars, but the electrical you should be aware of are that, typically, the solenoid is powered by 12-24 volts, AC or DC, at 2-5 amps. The average phone system control contacts will NOT handle that kind of power directly! So you will probably need to lay your hands on a relay with contacts that are capable of switching 24VAC @ 5 Amps. But the operating coil should be no more than 12 volts DC at 1/2 Amp. Check specs on both the strike solenoid AND the KSU control contacts!!! Sandman in Chicago comes to mind as a logical source for the relay.
When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2
Member
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Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2 |
yes thank you. i've done many door strikes, just never the wiring in the frame. i've got all of the pieces ready to go!
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,059 Likes: 6
Moderator-1A2, Cabling
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Moderator-1A2, Cabling
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,059 Likes: 6 |
When I did door strikes/security bolts/etc. we had to drill the frame out. We needed stainless steel bits and they cost a fortune.
Sam
"Where are we going and why are we in this hand basket?"
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,290
Member
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Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,290 |
Some door frames ("bucks") do have knockouts for the wiring. Where they would be, in your case, is only a guess.
Have you put a tone supply on the wires, and tried to find them with an exploring probe? You might at least be able to see what general direction they head off to, and then find where they are cut off, in order to make a splice somewhere easier.
Is this a residence or a commercial building? Try looking in the basement directly under the door. The wires might be cut down there. Can anyone familiar with the building tell you if there was a button on someone's desk, before the current tenants moved in? Have you searched high and low for the transformer? It might be jury-rigged at an electrical outlet, a sub-panel, or a ceiling lamp fixture behind some "stuff."
Good luck, I feel your pain.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,088 Likes: 2 |
it's a commercial building and I did not think of the basement. I will try to look there. Otherwise I've looked everywhere!
It's an old building and there is no push button to be found nor is there an old intercom box.
I don't want to butcher the door so I guess I will get my locksmith to snake it and I'll watch!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 253
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 253 |
the 1 pair 18 gauge wire usually comes down the wall then across direct to the strike in a typial installation. the negative lead goes to the power source (usually +12v dc for a strike) and the positive lead goes to the contact closure or trigger device where its acts as a bridge to the power source.
I've installed both 12v and 24v lockings systems to many different phone equipment without any third party device. And have yet to have had a problem.
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