atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums Other TDM Phone Systems 1A2 and Comkey Telephones & Systems Project 1A2: Phase I complete.

Almost there. MOH is pretty much all that's left to do. Also I don't like the way the cable runs from the KSU to the 66 block, I think I'll do that one over when I get the proper 25 block from Ed.

https://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6665/10190721151kx7.jpg

https://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6024/10210710341ry0.jpg

https://img504.imageshack.us/img504/1383/10210710342mg2.jpg

https://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5812/10210710351hy4.jpg

https://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2664/10210710352tq5.jpg

I'm going to try to get this, cut a hole in my backboard, and recess into it. Comments?

Thanks
Matt

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260173796380

Thats a lot neater than I seen some professional installers do over the years.

Matt:

Most telco racks are 23", not 19". Either way, that's a lot to try to fit within a standard 16" stud wall without notching studs. That's something I'd never advocate. You might want to ask the seller to confirm the dimensions anyway.

Why not mount it on stand-offs? You can use plastic conduit / tubing and long wood screws.

Yep, I sent him an email asking the dimensions.

At least from the left edge of the amphenol card, over to the right edge of the bell.

If it's greater than 16" (actually a bit less, I think the 16" standard is on center), I'll have my nephew build a box to mount it in.

And now to take this completely off topic -

As far as notching studs... no worries there. I don't do that. Ever.

The previous owner of my house decided to recess his big screen TV into the rec room wall.

I had to gut the rec room, as I had to replace the lower 1/3 of ALL structural framing around the house (due to bad siding that absorbed and retained water instead of repelling it). You could literally grab a 2x4 and watch it crumble to dust in your hands.

Anyway.... after gutting the rec room, I took a look at where he had cut the studs to recess his TV.

He used a 2x4 laid flat for a header; and apparently a keyhole saw to cut the studs, and near as I can tell, eyeballed where to cut them, as some were shorter than others, and none of them were a square cut.

No problem! He just grabbed some popsicle sticks to fill in the gap. I'm not kidding. Freaking popsicle sticks.

Where the gap was too large for popsicle sticks, the studs were just left dangling.

Oh, one other small detail.

The wall he cut into (removing about 1/3 of it).... was a load bearing wall.

Between the dry rot and his handywork, to this day I don't understand why this house remained standing.

Arthur -

Excellent tip. That will be a lot easier, and I will do just that. You guys continue to amaze me.

Thanks!
Matt

PS

Thanks Bob! But most of the kudos go to Ken and Ed..... they basically walked me through every step. Thankfully Ken lives not too far away, and was good enough to stop out one day. He showed me how to do a radius on the curves, mounted the tie down blocks, and a bunch of other stuff. But the most important thing he taught me was how to "bunt" a cable. Until then, I didn't understand how anyone could possibly sort out the pairs. Also the cable Ed sold me is excellent quality; the colors are vivid (which is good since they tell me I'm color blind), and the pairs have just the right amount of twist to them.

Pretty much all that's left is to get a beer fridge (another idea I'm stealing from Ed) to make a convienient excuse for people to see the work.

How about a kegerator?

I took down my 551 Weco shoebox a few years back. I used it as a test. It had the RT melco intercom buzzers and all that good stuff. As I look back you needed the 105 ring generator for diode selective ringing.

Congratulations!

Sign this man up for NASA Control!