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The Music aspect of it will work and probably does.

Don't think right away that it's a bad intercom unit. This unit will not make it work without set conversion.

It's been some time... but you can make any music source work without the intercom part on 1a2

Some of the older 400 cards didn't allow for the option. But you could still make it work!

As I rember it was somwhat like allowing a single line set to work off any line when a button was depressed.

There is a slight set conversion for this via the network and switch-hook. I'm sure there are other ways to do it.

The interrupter crkt has a path.

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Hey I gotta ask...what is this you call 'cable bunting'?


Jeff Moss

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Well,

If you strip the sheath from a 25 pair cable, you very quickly end up with 50 tangled leads. I know this, cause that's what I did time and time again.

So what you do is stip an inch or so of sheath off the end. Then you find this cloth string (which I thought was just there to piss me off). Then you wrap some electrical tape around the exposed 1" of leads (leaving the string out of it), and then pull the string back, which cuts the sheathing. You're probably too young to remember, but they used to have a similar thing in a band aid wrapper.

Anyway, now you've got a foot or so of exposed wire, and an empty sheath hanging loose. You carefully and neatly trim the loose sheathing off, and then wrap electrical tape around the leads (about an inch or so up from the sheathing), back down to and around the sheathing which wasn't trimmed off.

So what you end up with is 25 pairs, taped at both ends. This keeps them secure. Then, as you punch down each pair, you gently pull it from the taped end, do the punching, leaving the remaing pairs secured by the tape.

Now when it's all punched down, you have a tight looking punch job, the leads remain twisted as you use them, and it's very easy to find the pair you are looking for. And finally, the end of the sheathing is wrapped neatly, adding to the professional look, as opposed to a bunch of wires just sticking out of the sheath.

Dunno if I described that very well. Next time I do it, which will be soon, I'll try to take pictures of each step.

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That is a pretty neat idea. I do use the rip cord to strip the cable jacket, but never thought of taping the pairs. I will try that next time I punch down a cable.
PS. I do vaguely remember the red string in Band-Aid wrappers smile

Thanks for the tip!
Jeff


Jeff Moss

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lol on the band aids!

no problem man - just something Ken taught me (you wouldn't believe how much he can teach you in the space of an hour or so). And of course everyone else here as well.

We didn't get a chance to talk about it much, but I guess they used to have a really complicated way of doing this, I didn't catch all of it, but it sounded very complicated, with a lot of attention to detail required.

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Looking good Matt!

Nice looking work.

Sam


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Thanks man ... !

Hey - how do you get the cover off those @$$#?!! comdials? (I don't know if I ever told you - it showed up NIB, great shape, works great).

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There's a little metal clip in the top (or bottom - depends wether it's desk or wall) center of the face plate. It's spring loaded. Slide it back and the face plate will lift off. That will give you access to the screws that hold the body to the base.

The same applies to any of the WE or ITT phones of the same type of design.

Glad to hear the phone showed up. The guy's got great prices and great equipment but seems awfully tardy on the shipping.

Sam


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I see some cross-connections, I think, but they seem to be routed inside the 66 blocks, rather than outside. Is that how you did it?


Arthur P. Bloom
"30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"

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