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Joined: Jun 2009
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Ooops, should be bl/wh to t/r, o/wh to a/A1 and gr/wh to L/LG. I was a little color dyslexic.

The way it's wired works fine with my 2851. So I'm thinking something is majorly fubar with the 2565. I'll just pickup another 2564 or 2565 and use that instead. Or now that I know how the A/A1 and lamp lines work I can modify my current phones to work with the system.

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Originally posted by EV607797:
When you go off hook, two sets of contacts in the phone close. One set shorts the appropriate A leads, then a split-second later, the other set cuts through the phone line. When both sets are closed, a call can be made and the line is lit steadily.

If the A lead short is broken while the phone is off-hook, this will place the call on hold. Pressing the hold button breaks the A lead connection long enough to start hold and then to release the line key on its way back up.

The line card detects the fact that current is flowing through tip and ring, but something caused the current flowing through A and A1. In detecting this, it places a hold bridge across the line and changes the lamp from steady to winking.
Thanks for that. I've done some messing with the A lead functionality and found that line seize doesn't have to happen right away.

It can happen several seconds later and it won't put the line on hold.

I know the 400G card has plug settable options. anyone know where I can get hold of the BSP for the cards themselves?

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You REALLY need to be checking A & A1 lead continuity for line 1 IN THE PHONE. Then check 'A' contact closure IN THE PHONE HOOKSWITCH CONTACT STACK. You've probably got a bent contact. Changing '400' cards will NEVER cure a bad phone. frown John C.


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Originally posted by Lightninghorse:
You REALLY need to be checking A & A1 lead continuity for line 1 IN THE PHONE. Then check 'A' contact closure IN THE PHONE HOOKSWITCH CONTACT STACK. You've probably got a bent contact. Changing '400' cards will NEVER cure a bad phone. frown John C.
Well, I know I can trip A lead by jumpering across A/A1 for line 1.

Can you point me to what colors are used for the A/A1 in the hookswitch? Better yet, can anyone point me towards a good schematic on the 2565HKM?

I dissected the phone and I found a Gr/Wh lead from the touch tone pad with no lug on the end but I can't seem to find where it hooks in. I'll check the hookswitch.

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PM Sent.

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Ooops, should be bl/wh to t/r, o/wh to a/A1 and gr/wh to L/LG. I was a little color dyslexic.
You're getting warmer. You got one of them right.


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Man, do you guys make my brain cells dredge up almost forgotten stuff. I recall that at times, we needed to abbreviate some of our cable pairs similar to the differences between the 6 & 10 button phones. Wasn't A1 common with LG? And why do the old Bell / Telco guys often reverse the order of cable pairs from us vendor trained guys. In the old days I often saw Quad cut down as R/G/Y/B while we were trained G/R/B/Y. In the above scenario, t/r doesn't really matter (except for old dial pads without OPG). And I think at the phone, a/a1 may not always be particular either since they were simply make/break contacts.


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If the first A/A1 is reversed then the other lines don't have A lead control.As far as the old Bell guys our vendor? was either the BSP's or WECO specs.

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Theoretically, yes Dave. Lamp ground and signal ground (A1) were at the same potential and strapped together at the power supply. They weren't supposed to be tied together anywhere else but we are among friends, so we can be honest for having cheated in order to steal a half-pair here and there.

Jim, in this particular situation, a reversal of A/A1 wouldn't really matter since the OP only has one line connected. True, a second or more lines would be a problem if the first A/A1 was reversed.


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Yeah Ed that was just for point of reference to keep all in ordnung and ref. for vendor trained telephone men.

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