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I've used plug and jack to extend cables a few times, never had any issues.
Jeff Moss Moss Communications Computer Repair-Networking-Cabling MBSWWYPBX, JGAE
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It will work just fine ..... but is there a chance you have AC power nearby? if so put in a small switch. As long as it's 6 and not 6a, and given the length of the run, they shouldn't expect to run 10G, this would work. But I really don't like placing hidden active equipment in a path. It also prevents them from using anything but Ethernet on this run. If, as Hal mentions, they're just going to run 100Base-TX or T4 over it, sure, it'll work fine. It will probably work fine for Gig as well. But, it all depends on their use case, and whether or not they're asking for certification on these runs. It's worth being cautious here.
Last edited by msa; 03/24/13 03:25 PM.
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I've used the splices that Carl referenced above, for Cat5e, and they worked fine.
Arthur P. Bloom "30 years of faithful service...15 years on hold"
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You don't say what happened that this cable needs to be spliced. I'm assuming that it's something that the customer or somebody working for them did. I would give then the two options, splice it and know the limitations or replace it. Let them worry about it.
-Hal
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
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Do Not use Scotchlok. Do Not use Bix blocks, 66-blocks or even 110 blocks.
The Cat5/6 in-line splice mentioned earlier is the best way to do it. This is designed to keep the cable pairs close to their correct length and will limit skew, crosstalk and other interference that will be introduced using the other methods. Using an in-line split like this will even pass level 3 Certification of the cable run.
Using a Keystone Jack and Modular plug will also work in a pinch. Even 2 modular plugs and a coupler will work.
The worse splice I have ever seen done was someone extending 6 Cat5E lines and using a patch panel and Modular plugs. The whole mess was laid up in the hard ceiling on top of an A/C duct.
Last edited by Mercenary Roadie; 03/24/13 05:01 PM.
Patrick T. Caezza Santa Paula, CA 93060 C-7 - Low Voltage System Contractor - Lic# 992448
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It may or maynot pass a CAT 6 CERT test, doesn't mean it won't work. Much of this stuff is way overrated by the IT types. I agree with using the splice kits for the best results.
Retired phone dude
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RIP Moderator-Nisuko-Tie, General
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It may or maynot pass a CAT 6 CERT test, doesn't mean it won't work. Much of this stuff is way overrated by the IT types. I agree with using the splice kits for the best results. I agree. I like using the splice kit becouse it looks neat vs scothclocks and if a "IT type" ever questions it I can point out that it is a "official" Cat 6 splice If Sam says Scothlocks work then I'm sure they do the allentel part number is AT66CB-52 although the one Carl linked to looks the same
Skip ------------------------------------
Serving SW and West central Fl since 1984
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I cringe at the very thought of it, but I've got a situation where I'm forced to splice a 300' cat6 cable. It will be roughly in the middle of the run. I'm planning to jack one end and plug the other. The splice will be in one of the few locations that is still somewhat accessible for re-entry if needed. Comments? Do it, you want have any issues. Another alternative would be to use a 2-hole surface mount box with 2 Cat 6 inserts and a short patch cable. -Larry, Real Cool Data Dude. 
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Either the splice block that basically has two 6 rated termination points that are connected via circuit board or wires or two jacks and a 1' patch cable. If done right, even 6A will pass this certification most of the time depending on your craftsmanship.
I try to stay away from crimping any 8P8Cs if I don't have to. Then again, I don't carry any 6 rated connectors to begin with.
Jeff Lead Field Engineer, MSCNS
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It may or maynot pass a CAT 6 CERT test, doesn't mean it won't work. Much of this stuff is way overrated by the IT types. I agree with using the splice kits for the best results. I don't disagree, but sometimes certification is part of the deal. If it's a repair, use whatever you can (that's not active, if at all possible) and explain its limitations. I haven't used them but those splices do look like just the thing.
Last edited by msa; 03/24/13 09:52 PM.
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