sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Telecom Service & Providers Dry loop DSL help

I am helping a friend with a DSL install in a warehouse where AT&T is supplying DSL only. The problem is there are 3 jacks in the builting to choose from, and all 3 are on different lines.

Normally in this situation, I can hook my buttset up to the line and hear the sound of the DSL signal, but in this case, all 3 pairs have normal voltage, but no signal. The lines also have very good readings on my Sidekick.

Is there a way telco can ID the correct line? The 6 pair line comes in the building, connects to a split 66M block, then goes to a standard 66 where it is split to 3 jacks. I only know a few test numbers for my local exchange, but unfortunately this is on another exchange and my #'s don't work.

We plugged the modem into each jack, but it wouldn't connect, so I'm guessing there's another jack that's the "right" one, or they didn't get the service connected yet.

What is a good practice for this situation?

You won't hear anything on DSL until there is something connected to it. The best way is as you did, hook up a modem and see if there is a signal present, if not no DSL is there. So based on your post it's either on a jack you haven't located or not active yet. Did you try the DEMARC?

I have a test set that syncs to the Telco's signal that comes in pretty handy for this stuff and to test the line.

Bill, thanks for the info. I haven't talked with my friend to see if he resolved it yet, and the demarc consisted of one of the old metal enclosures with 25 pairs or more in it for the whole building, not just his space, so I didn't mess with it!

There were phone numbers written on the orange cover to the 66M block though, do you think AT&T might be able to tell what number the DSL is on, even though it's a dry pair?
If I could get them to send tone down it, I could use my Fluke toner to find it.

Make them come out and do a locate and tag at the demarc. Don't waste any more of your time.

-Hal

Hal, thanks for the advice! I think he's going with cable internet now, as the problem turns out to be they were taking their damn sweet time activating it! (He ordered it last week!) But this will give me experience on what to do if I encounter this again.

I will actually be starting up TPR telecom (The Phone Room, name of my antique phone museum) in about a year if all goes well. I will do residential installs of cabling for phone, video, networking etc. In the meantime I plan to get on with a local company and get more skills first.

Yup, as Hal said, T&L is the best route. If they refuse to do that, then go to the Demarc. Take your buttset and eliminate any of those pairs in the 25 pair that have dialtone on them. Also, if your buttset has active DSL detection, then you'd know if you accidentally clipped onto someone else's pair. Like the Fluke TS-44Pro (what I have). Then test the remaining pairs with a modem, a telephone jack/keystone jack, and some wire, then screw on the wire to each pair until your modem gets sync.

Alternatively if you wanted to buy a DSL testset, a used Colt 250+ test meter has angled bed-of-nails clips and 4p4c connector that you can use in almost any situation. That's what I have. Not the greatest testset for everyday use but good enough.

Make sure you label the pair once you finish.

Hawk, thanks for the advice! My buttset doesn't detect DSL, as it's an old Bell rotary one! Can't yet afford a nicer one, but the old blue one works fine. I also have a "pocket phone" that I use as a buttset when I need touch tone. That Colt meter looks nice, but I probably wouldn't use it a lot, and unless I could get a deal on one like I did my Sidekick 7B ($150 NEW!) I don't see me getting one soon.

Your sidekick will show active DSL or a training modem on a pair when you put it into stress mode. Stress will bounce up and down, from my experience about 10-20dB. On a side note, I just picked up a used Sidekick T&N on fleebay for $180 to replace my other Sidekick T&N that died (meter doesn't work). Mohawk wanted almost $300 to repair it.