atcomsystems.ca/forum Forums General General Telephone & Systems Information Repairing TS22AL

I few years ago I bought some tools that came with Harris TS19 pretty much in mint condition and TS22AL that was describes as a working unit, but not at the time of sale due to possible 9v battery in need of replacement. I installed new battery into TS22AL, but it did not work, I did not give it much though and chucked the thing in the back of the tool box. Some time later I came across the TS22AL again and tried to give it another whirl, to no avail I took it apart to see what might be wrong with it, not seeing too much in there that can be fixed or possibly go wrong with it, I did discovered it a little wierd that 3v battery would be soldered onto the board and was coated with hard clear finish assuming for waterproofing, not giving it much I threw it in back in storage. Some more time passed and I came across some post on here on some other forums about that exact 3v soldered battery might be the cause of the dead butt set. All of the info seemed consistent and insisting of the replacement of it and how it was part of a bad design and took some effort and creative approach to the task at hand. One of the posters mentioned using the plastic battery holder that would be found on typical mother board of the pc. I took a note of the idea and said to myself, I'd have to try that, so I bought battery holders on eBay for less than a buck for 10 shipped from China land. Carefully cut around the battery cell and lifted it, ofcourse some soldered contact broke off leaving plenty room for re-soldering. Found some wires that can be used for soldering and went to town, I am not the greatest with soldering iron, but if done right I had good results. I tried to do this one in a rush for some reason and I believe that it'll be noticeable. Anyway, once everything was attached I pulled out glue and coated the bottom of the cell holder trying to cover the contacts as well, once glue dried, the results looked promising, so I went ahead and slapped the new shiny battery in its old place. The result seems pleasing to the eye and I was able to hear the hissing speaker and amplification once the buttons are pressed, but when I got the leads onto a 66 block I was devastated to find myself with a dead butt set, was almost ready to give up, back at the desk I called it a miserable failure and began assembling the 22 back together, then I got to top cover I noticed that I glued it little bit too far up and the covers plastic post was hitting the battery, so I ripped the battery holder from the glue and discovered that not all of the glue had dried out. Figured that was a problem I dried it up and took it over to 66 block, result were a little bit better, in monitor mode I was able to get the ring though the speaker, but the sounds was bad, no ear piece sound, no dialing of the numbers no testing function. I left it again, until I rant into similar issue with TS44 from Harris that recently taken apart for the guts tour. The screws were not tight enough on the test leads and the casing and produced similar results. After TS44 was revived, I though maybe the TS22AL had to be in its shell and sure enough once I got the bottom half and made a couple turns on test leads the results started to look promising. Now I am left with the final small dilemma which is pictured in last 4 pics.

Should I place the 3v battery where it originally was or have it moved to the either side of the 9v holding tray as the wires I soldered onto it are long enough and are pictured as well?
I am thinking to use the hot glue gun for the final stage instead of the glue that was used previously, would that be ok?

I apologize for such lengthy post.

Thanks











[img]https://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/kinosolntse/Harris%20TS22AL%20Butt%20Set/11.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/kinosolntse/Harris%20TS22AL%20Butt%20Set/12.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/kinosolntse/Harris%20TS22AL%20Butt%20Set/13.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/kinosolntse/Harris%20TS22AL%20Butt%20Set/14.jpg[/img]

Why did you goober the battery and holder up with glue? I think it's fine the way you have it extended over to the battery compartment and I don't think you even have to worry about the terminals shorting because everything is plastic. I think the glue is the problem.

-Hal

I tend to agree with Hal.

Just 1 question. How much time and effort have you put into this.
There comes a time when you need to buy a new one.

Yes. Eliminate the "Goober Glue." Leave the battery where it is. I do this all the time with my test equipment. If the replacement part won't fit in the original location, move it where it will. Just use some insulating heat shrink on the terminals.

Rcaman

The battery holder was laced with a coat a glue to seal the soldered contacts before it would of been place back into its original position on the same glue, which all of it did not completely before I tested the finished product. The battery cell seen under the holder during the glue process is the old/original used to prop the holder to hold it as much horizontally as possible for the glue not to ooze over to one side, once dried the extra blobs of glue were cut off and trimmed with ease using a razor only leaving the bottom of the holder with glue. Then the idea was just to set the holder on the same type of glue back onto the board, but I guess the contacts were not covered well in glue and thus when being set on board I am thinking possibly made a short of some sort.
I would say that at most I spent on this whole thing about 3 hours in total from the very first screw when being taken apart, when it was taken apart I also cleaned the plastics removing lots of gunk. The test leads could used a better clips as the current ones have the rubber grips sliced in half and missing exposing the bare metal completely once the leftovers from the boot slide down to cord. I've seen someone used the heat shrink tubes to cover up the clips, as one would get a nice tickling jolt from the 66 block with sweaty/damp hands and exposed clips, not to mention shorting out.
I just believed that this thing could have another shot at life and be a backup or serve to someone else.
I just recently got a Fluke TS44 Pro mainly due to an attractive sale price and was thinking to replace the Harris version of it (which works just fine) that I got about 2 years ago. One thing is that Harris set has a little bit different layout of the dial pad and has a 3.5 mil jack for the headphones in the battery compartment, the 9v battery also drains fairly fast in my opinion. I do not use the butt sets very often, so the unit spends lots of time on the sidelines.

I do know that the battery holder terminal layout does not match up with the original battery terminal layout on the board. So I realize that you have to do some modification to the board. Granted, I've never gone the holder route but I would have tried to use one terminal and drilled the board for the other. Then used a jumper from there. Keep in mind also that the board is double sided with plated through vias that act as connections from one side to the other. If you damage one by careless desoldering with the wrong equipment something will not work.

-Hal

I soldered to the terminal on board as it was still weakly attached after the battery removal, will post a pic later if need be. The butt set works,I do not believe that I made it clear earlier.
I am thinking of relocation the 3v battery to the 9v compartment, but was not sure if that be ok since the leads are in there.
Maybe I am overthinking or overdoing something so simple, just want to make sure that it wont be sloppy.

Should be fine. Not something I would do since I'm for in keeping with the way it was originally designed but that's just me. If it makes sense to you that's what matters.

-Hal