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Joined: Oct 2004
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WE just had an inspector require bushing on the ends of conduits above the drop ceiling. That is a new one here in Raleigh, NC. Anway gotta please the inspector. So I went to Lowes Home improvement they only had 1/2" I needed 3/4" so off I went to Graybar...Man did I get it up the rear end down their, w/ no lube I might add, they charged me $2.25 each for the bushings. Where do you guys get them at a reasonable price?
Gonna stock up if we are going to have to start using them.
Thanks in Advance

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At $2.25 each, they must have sold you a clamp type fitting? I install bushings all the time, every job that has conduit roughed in. Just use a 3/4" EMT box connector and a 3/4" plastic bushing. I buy the connectors in a box (without lock nut) and the bushings which works out to under a $1.00 per fitting (and that's Canadian wink ) Get them from an electrical wholesaler, not Graybar.

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I install bushings on the end of all conduit also. I pick mine up at Home Depot.


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Arlington industries makes a plastic bushing for conduit that simply pushes onto the end of the EMT. They are about ten cents a piece and most electrical suppliers carry thier products.

This is a very loosely-enforced part of the electrical code, but it is required. It just depends upon the inspector.


Ed Vaughn, MBSWWYPBX
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Ed is correct. I would think that it would be the electrical contractors job to place and supply these if they installed the conduit.

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usually it's the electricians job. If they are still on the job the foreman will always get it done. Its always nice to be able to be there that early in the construction process.

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KLD Offline
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Also, check if the conduit is grounded. Some jurisdictions want the conduit grounded on both ends. That is done with a grounding bushing. Then insert the plastic bushing.

As you said, the inspector may not be God but he speaks directly to Him. Make the Inspector smile. smile

KLD wink


Ken
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Some jurisdictions want the conduit grounded on both ends. That is done with a grounding bushing. Then insert the plastic bushing.

I'm going to put my old electricians hat on here and say that's ridiculous! There is absolutely no reason for the conduit to be grounded on both ends, NEC or any other code. I also might ask you what exactly are you "grounding" it to at each end?

The NEC doesn't even require that conduit carrying low voltage cables be grounded at all(actually the term is bonded) unless it is likely to be energized. I do make it a practice to make sure all are unless it is a short run, a stub up or something similar but certainly not at each end unless it is carrying a ground wire. Simply use a ground clamp on the conduit, no need to use a grounding bushing which is expensive.

Your statement "make the inspector smile" only shows how much you are intimidated by him. If you don't challenge him it can wind up costing you money for unnecessary things just to make him happy.

Want to make the inspector respect you? Learn the code that applies to your work then when he gives you this BS tell HIM to show you where it is written. Yes, he has to quote a code section, he can't make stuff up because he feels like it.

On the subject of bushings, be aware that in a dropped ceiling that is used for environmental air you cannot use plastic bushings. You have to use metal or bakelite.

Bushings are always FPT (unless you use the Arlington push-on's) so you need a threaded connector on the end of the conduit (EMT). Throw away the locknut and screw on the bushing. A set screw die cast connector and bushing, even metal or bakelite bushing is probably less than 75 cents. I don't know what you were paying $2.25 for.


-Hal


CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
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Whoa there, Hal. Easy does it.

Most of the conduit run is for electrical therefore it is bonded and grounded at the distribution panel. Some locations want the low volt to have the same ground and/or bond. If a conduit is run from one location to another, not attached to power, to be grounded / bonded.

As for your other comments, you MUST be having a bad day. Smiles will get you further than PixxinG off an inspector, especially a Corps of Engineer inspector. You do what the spec calls for and get the inspector's blessing.

Hope you have a better day. wink

KLD


Ken
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Geeze, why does everybody think I'm grumpy? frown I just don't like to see misinformation thrown around because some people will take it as fact.

Some locations want the low volt to have the same ground and/or bond. If a conduit is run from one location to another, not attached to power, to be grounded / bonded.

Locations or jobs?

You apparently are talking job specs and (I think) government work. I'm talking about normal commercial or even residential work that is governed by the NEC and inspected by an electrical inspector that may be independent or may be employed by the jurisdiction.

I don't think a government facility even falls under local jurisdiction and the NEC that was adopted. They can spec anything they want and put anybody they want in charge of inspecting your work.

Some commercial jobs may have specs written by an engineer or, God forbid, some IT geek. Whenever you see a limitation of only two 90 degree bends per conduit run between pull boxes you know that's where that came from. So it's not surprising that they would want each run of conduit bonded at each end.

In the "real world" low voltage conduit does not necessarily have to be bonded. In actuality many times there already is continuity to ground by virtue of the way it is supported or held in place. For instance, if it shares the same Unistrut rack with the electrical conduit it will be suitably bonded.

If there are specs that require specific methods of bonding then that is what must be followed, but keep in mind that in most jurisdictions the electrical inspector will enforce the NEC not the job specs.

When there are no specs don't just assume that you have to go to the trouble and expense of bonding the conduit runs. Common sense should dictate what needs to be done. If the low voltage conduit installation is extensive and interconnected, yes bond it someplace. But if it consists of numerous short runs like stub-ups or sleeves don't bother.

I also agree that whoever installed the conduit has the responsibility of bonding it if necessary and providing bushings where needed.


-Hal


CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
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