sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Common Cable Failures... and splices

Yes, and now that we know what your looking for one thread is fine. You could use any CAT 5 rated block or box to splice, I wouldn't use a CAT6 rated on CAT5 because of the difference in wire gauge.

If it was an easy pull I wouldn't splice at all, I'd replace it.

Okay, I understand now.

I *thought* Cat6 was supposed to be 23ga, highly twisted, and internally "+" splined to reach its rated use (200MHz+), but I've seen some Cat6 that is 24 gauge and has a flat and/or no spline.

I think I see what you are writing: that cat5e will not properly seat (or stay properly seated) on a block/splice designed for 23ga wire. So, use Cat5e splices on Cat5e wire, and use Cat6 splices on Cat6 wire.

Jack

Really, I've never see CAT6 with out the dielectric or 24 gauge. It's the tighter twist larger gauge and the dielectric that gives it less harmonics to support the higher speeds. At least that was my understanding. There are folks here that know more about that than I do. I'm sure they'll chime in.

Sam, I am becoming more and more convinced that we are related. Beanies did fine for decades. The problem was that they were easy to "cheat", meaning that if you didn't have the proper presser, you just pulled a bean out of your pocket and smashed it with the butt of a screwdriver against the pole. The only reason that Bell dropped them as spec was because of the fact that there was too much room for error. Nowadays, people squeeze the crap out of them thinking that harder is better. What they are doing is degrading the quality of the contact by bending the tangs within the connector.

There's no doubt that Scotchloks and other IDC connectors are the way to go. The problem with Scotchloks is that even those will fail if not used with the proper crimping tool. Many people try to crimp them with needle-nose or slip-joint pliers. This either over-crimps them or doesn't seat the joint properly.

Both beanies and Scotchloks are getting a bad rap because jacklegs use them without the proper tooling. If it looks that simple, they you are doing it the wrong way.

Picabond connectors are great for saving space, but only on small cable splices (50 pairs or less). For larger splices, they really take more time than they are worth in comparison with 710 or MS2 modular splicing systems. Don't even dream of crimping these connectors without the proper tool.

709 connectors are great. NO special tools, no special training, and you can almost complete them with fingertip pressure. They aren't cheap, but they sure are handy and reliable.

I've never seen a splicing system so backward as 3M's MS2. I have used them on one project and swore that I'd never use them again. For mass splicing, I always use the 710 system and rarely have any problems.

Ed is the main man..........except........The proper use of the pica bonds and their mass installation tooling can save room....much tighter and neater than the 710......and they do load coils easier.

Again, like you said, the correct tooling and training.

I was afraid this was going to happen. We're discussing two things in one topic here. Since this one has seem to run toward conventional splicing methods for cable and wiring, how about opening another on your network cabling questions Fletcher. That is if you need further input. Thanks.

So on the suject of splice connectors:

I was a cable splicer for several years for then Northwestern Bell. They did a study which concluded, at the time, that B wire connectors, properly used with the correct presser were the equivalent to a soldered connection. I realize this was many years ago. I spliced many thousands of pairs with them, 24 gauge or smaller we didn't strip and no problems. Mismatch gauges or 3 or more wires and 19 gauge we striped before pressing.

On the Bean vs Scotchlok. Back in the early 70s GTE said it would go with Scotchlok, the Bell System stuck to Beans well into the 80's. Through my research I found the reason the Bell System switch to Scotchlok was because of the good deal they got from 3m for their connector. I've been in splice terminal around here that were splice by me in the 70s with beans. To say they were ever an inferior connector is just plan incorrect. Like any connector if you don't use the right tool you won't get the factory intended connection..So there's my two cents.

that's the key , to many times I see them with as many wires as they can shove in there and crimped with anything handy

the proper tool "ain't cheap "

I've used them without problem also

( I see failures on scothlocks crimped by pliers where the button doesn't get pushed dosen't all the way , Ive repaired scothclock connections simply by using the scothlock tool to properly finish the crimp )

Wirenuts were designed to be installed without tools. B-Connectors, UG/R/Ys, Picabond and all the rest were designed to be used WITH THE PROPER TOOL. People that are trained on wirenuts and not trained on anything else - when they're handed a box of something else assume that everything works like a wirenut. Foreman call a supply house and say "Send me a box of those Telephone wirenuts" get just that. A box of connectors with no tool.

That's part of the problem. Bad training or no training at all. And we're not even talking about the lazy sacks of @#&^%.

Sam

Okay, Bill - I'll stick with splices here.

If repulling the cable is not an option, what is the best way to splice a cut phone? For example, a 4pr Cat3 cable is cut in a ceiling and there is little to no slack in the line. What is the best way to fix that?

Jack