sundance-communications.com/forum Forums Wiring - Telecom Carriers - Trunks & Services Cabling Telephones Systems Wiring Replacing C5's

I need to replace 200 C5's on my MDF because they are worn out. I've done one or two at a time before where I just grab the C5 with a pair of pliars and pull it off. I have a 5 pair punch down tool that I use to attach a new C5. Is that the best methodolgy to employ or is there a better, more proper way?

TIA

No, pretty much that's the drill. I don't envy you because most times the wires unseat from the frame. Sounds like a total pain.

Carl

What's a C5 and how do they wear out?

This may help . Although not listed there, C5 is also an explosive related to C4. That explains why you should not apply too much punchdown force.

A C5 is the 5-pair clip that goes onto a 110 block after you punch the cable underneath it.

There is a tool designed to hold the cable pairs in place while you wrestle out the C5.

Then it's just a matter of putting the new clip on top, and using the 5-pair tool to seat it.

They also come in C3 and C4 variety which are 3 and 4 pair respectively.

Yet another reason to use BIX in lieu of 110 :rolleyes:

I once tried installing a 110 block and found it very difficult to push down those C5 clips. Is there a tool for that? Also, is there any way to remove the C5 clips without a special tool? Prying one off with a screwdriver is very hard to do and almost impossible to do without mangling the block underneath it.

There are 5 pair 110 punchdown tools...here is one from Fluke: https://www.flukenetworks.com/fnet/en-us/products/D-Impactor/Overview

Just grip and rip, preferably with a large pliars, to get them off. A 5-pair bunch down tool makes short work of putting them on. Generally they don't need replacing although recently I had to replace a bunch and about 300 cross connects due to water damage leaking from the floor above. Interested in knowing what the tool is that TTT is talking about that holds the wires underneath in place since they always pull out. Wouldn't have helped me in the case above though since the copper in the wire was corroded at the ends, I had to move the blocks down an inch or two to get a manageable slack to work with.