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I have been using a Black and Decker Bullseye Laser Leveler/Stud-Metal-AC Wiring Sensor (Cat. # BDL110S)

It works fine and everything EXCEPT if the the walls and floors are not level, then a tape measure works best.


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Quote
Originally posted by Arthur P. Bloom:
Dagwood: That's all well and good for your typical installation, but Cat 7, 8, and 9 require that the wires be perfectly level, so that the electrons don't all slide to one end and clog up the router.

At the end of every long horizontal run, you need to put in a data ejector pump, and they can overheat, as well, if the incoming (horizontal) and outgoing (vertical) wires are not level and plumb.
Empirical evidence has shown that with a single Cat 10.5 (beta) data run with a deviation of .5 arc second drop in a furlong per fortnight does exponentially increase to the point that a single byte easily confounds past a terabit (10 to the 12th) and yottabit (10 to the 24th) to the realm of Googleplex (10 to a google, or 10 to a 10 to a 100)... and we all know where that leads.

Remember, you don't have to look it up because I already did.

...and for you skeptics:

you can research my information at either site:

Site One
or
Site Two


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Quote
Originally posted by Professor Shadow:
I have been using a Black and Decker Bullseye Laser Leveler/Stud-Metal-AC Wiring Sensor (Cat. # BDL110S)

It works fine and everything [b]EXCEPT
if the the walls and floors are not level, then a tape measure works best. [/b]
That's why I say NOT to use a laser level. All you need is something to project a straight line. If it must be parallel with the floor or ceiling measure and put a mark at both ends, align your laser with the mark at one end then tilt it up or down to hit the mark in the far end. That's a hell of a lot easier than measuring for each hook.

And of course I am talking about an exposed run. Who the hell cares what it looks like up in a hung ceiling. Besides, you would have to be blind to not be able to eyeball where to place your hangers so that they are in a pretty straight line which is more than good enough where only the rats and roaches will see them.

-Hal


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Sometimes I'm totally astounded at the spare time in this world and the manner in which it is 'frittered' away. This may have something to do with the realization that I have very little time left to 'fritter' away! frown


When I was young, I was Liberal. As I aged and wised up, I became Conservative. Now that I'm old, I have settled on Curmudgeon.
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You could also use a chalk line
[Linked Image from instruction.greenriver.edu]


Merritt

Business Telephones & Equipment + Commercial Audio/Video Products
Commercial Communications . . . Turner, Maine
If it was built after 1980 don't expect it to work right.
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Quote
Originally posted by hbiss:
Quote
Originally posted by Professor Shadow:
[b] I have been using a Black and Decker Bullseye Laser Leveler/Stud-Metal-AC Wiring Sensor (Cat. # BDL110S)

It works fine and everything [b]EXCEPT if the the walls and floors are not level, then a tape measure works best. [/b]
That's why I say NOT to use a laser level.

And of course I am talking about an exposed run. Who the hell cares what it looks like up in a hung ceiling...

-Hal [/b]
I should have added that I have never used it for J-hooks. I only for cable tray when the customer is paying for it to look perfect.


Dean

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Well, I really meant more for going across a ceiling with 1/4-20 Rod for hangers, not J-hooks.

The $20 Ryobi laser I bought should do the trick. Will find out tomorrow.

The laser is faster than other methods, I don't see the harm in it. Sorry, but I hate my hangers looking all zig-zag when sparkie's conduits and boxes are all straight and nice (at this job, not normally the case).

For what this account is paying up to wire their new building I'd like everything neat and clean.

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