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#473641 08/27/05 12:23 PM
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Hey ev, this is why I was asking you about the picabond connectors;

I have a golf course that has a 100 pair privately owned line that joins their clubhouse to the maintenance shop. I am using this line to carry stations out into the shop from the KSU as well as joining the alarm system. There is a pedestal that is basically being used just as a junction point about halfway between the two buildings. I have to get rid of this pedestal because they are putting a driveway right through it. I was going to do a burial enclosure and just join the 100pr with those connectors.

Any other ideas?

I also thought about relocating that pedestal to the side of the new driveway and install a new pestestal on the other side with a new piece of 100pr in between.

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#473642 08/27/05 01:01 PM
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Is the 100 pair in the ped just 2 cables coming in (100 pair each) spliced together or is there other cables or drops working out of it?

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#473643 08/27/05 01:13 PM
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Just two. They built a new clubhouse last year and cut the 100pr. Somebody ran a new piece from the clubhouse and installed that box for a splice point.

#473644 08/27/05 01:29 PM
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The easiest and cheapest way would be as you suggest, two pedestals with a new run between.

If the distance isn't too great from one building to the existing pedestal location, it may be worth it to move the pedestal and replace the cable from the building to the new location.

-Hal


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#473645 08/27/05 01:38 PM
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If it's not serving any purpose other than a splice point, bury it and use a good buried encapsulent to keep it from getting wet, also bond it through on the sheath.


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#473646 08/27/05 02:13 PM
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I agree - splice it and bury it. As long as you do a really good job - bond it good, close it up good. If the splice is going to be under a drive way, you don't want to have problems with it. But you did say it was 100 pair and not much working out of it, right? I had a similar situation but the splice ended up under a really big green power transformer. A year later we had to replace the section and I don't have a clue why. I thought I did a really good job on it.

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#473647 08/28/05 01:49 AM
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There are some engineering factors that must be considered here.
1) What's the cable depth?
2) What's the depth of the new road base?

#473648 08/28/05 03:48 AM
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Yes, 100pr with not much going through it. No need for that pedestal, just a splice.

I was told it was originally put in with a ground slitter, so it won't be very deep on the one side. The side they cut during construction, may be a little deeper due to them replacing that piece, probably with a backhoe.

The road will be just a new gravel access route to the maintenance shop.

#473649 08/28/05 04:14 AM
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I have the same situation at the local golf club --- 6 pr. buried drop that went bad because it was buried down the driveway to the maintenance shop. Rock ledges and washouts. Waiting for the customer to decide if they want it replaced.

The two peds will pay for themselves over the buried splice. Down the road you may need to pick up pairs, repair circuits, etc., but if you splice it you'll have a potential failure point (even if done "right"). I have seen 4" concrete-encased, re-bar strengthened PVC duct "floated" out of the ground, damaging a 200 pr. 19 AWG cable due to heavy equipment traffic.

Maybe a conduit under (GIP -- ooops, Galvinized Iron Pipe) under the road just in case? That way, in the future, you could replace the cable without digging up the roadway.

Use the peds. [Linked Image from sundance-communications.com] KLD (former cable repairman / splicer)

[This message has been edited by KLD (edited August 28, 2005).]


Ken
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#473650 08/28/05 01:42 PM
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My advice is to buy a couple of cheap pedestals (UPC-BD3) with a new section of cable installed between them is the way to go.

Don't spend the money on a Picabond crimper or the modules themselves if you aren't a cable splicer by trade. It's to much money to spend for just one job. Use Scotchloks and use their crimping tool (don't try slip-joint pliers; you can over-crimp them where they actually cut the wire you are trying to splice).

If you plan to be supporting buried plant repairs on a regular basis, consider investing in tooling for modular splicing systems, such as 710 or MS2. Both are very popular but tooling is expensive. For smaller jobs, like yours, you can just stick with Scotchloks, or an equivalent.

Remember that just connecting the individual pairs back together isn't all that's involved. You will need to make sure that you maintain the sheath (aluminum shield) across the splice. It should also be grounded at the pedestal to a ground rod.

We use 3M #4465 (I think this is close to the part number) for sheath bond connections and "bond braid" that is perforated with eylets to connect to the bond bar in the pedestal. Then, just run #6 copper wire from the bond bar to the pedestal's ground rod.

If you are new to outside plant maintenance, stay away from buried splices. Until you are completely familiar with sheath bond clamps, splicing systems, etc., just keep everything "above ground" in pedestals so that even if you don't do it correctly, it can always be corrected without a shovel.

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Ed
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How come there's always enough time to go back and fix it a second time?


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