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Joined: May 2005
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Hey guys been reading up but cant find the model that will work with a pre ACS system. I dont know is its Partner Plus or Partner II if it matters. Viking E10A is what im thinking since I dont need it to dial. Please confirm.

I have been quoted by a local dealer XXXX for an older ATT door phone that will work and im thinking that it should be no more than XXXX on average.

My problem is that the button on the existing phone does not work. When I short the pairs leading into the existing door phone it dials via ext. 25 and you can communicate when answered. User can also dial 8080 to activate the strike. Also installed is some kind of ATT door opener.

FYI... ext. 25 to ATT door opener. Door opener has two ports which one goes to the door phone and the other goes to the strike.

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Don't know what you have been reading. Probably some garbage by internet dealers who know nothing except how too take your money.

Hate to tell you but any Partner doorphone will work with any Partner system that supports doorphones. Viking either did or does make the Partner doorphone for Avaya which is really the E10A. The original was made by Harris and is now made by Valcom. Quality wise it's still the best although the most expensive.

The Partner doorphone and the E10A does not provide a contact closure and I have no idea what you have now. A contact closure for door strike operation would be provided by a Partner contact closure adjunct and a programmed button on each phone. Unfortunately that is only for the ACS. Partner Plus and PartnerII do not support a contact closure directly.

There are doorphones that are designed to connect to a trunk port which of course will work with any system that accepts loop start lines. The E10A together with a controller (E2000) can provide the contact closure for the door strike operation but connects to the system via a trunk port.


-Hal


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Of course there's no law that says you can't replace the failed button, right?

Take a look at the "AV Series IP65 rated SPST Momentary-On Switch" here , and tell me that it doesn't look darn familiar!

If you're patient and electronically saavy, an exact replacement can be had for the price of two hamburgers.


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The Avaya door phone is a re-badged Bogen ADP1.


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Of course there's no law that says you can't replace the failed button, right?

If I read the OP correctly I don't think the problem is with the button although they are a common problem in these things.

When I short the pairs leading into the existing door phone it dials...

He is talking about the T/R for the doorphone, not the wires going to the button. My problem is that the button on the existing phone does not work. I think that is just a poor way of saying that the doorphone is inoperative when someone pushes the button.

-Hal


CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING: Some comments made by me are known to the State of California to cause irreversible brain damage and serious mental disorders leading to confinement.
Joined: May 2005
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Hal... regardless of the way I worded it, its still the button that is bad. Thanks for the confirmation guys.

I just ordered a new Viking E10A from my local Graybar. Be here tomorrow.

Hope im not getting blamed for something but the same customer mentioned that the phones cut off and go dead in the middle of a call at random times. I dont even remember moving of fideling w/ anything other than ext. 25 and that door opener piece thats releases the strike.

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Thanks again...

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Update...

The E10A wouldnt work as is out the box. I had to run it thru an ATT Door Phone Control. I had to re-wire the E10A so that the button wires went to "push button" and the speaker wires went to "speaker" on the ATT DPC. Thought I would lose talk back but I didnt.


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